SEARCH RESULTS

OAHU Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. FIVE FAVES / OAHU Surf Lore Oahu is known as the Gathering Place–and most gatherings come with surfboards. They are everywhere, in all colors and sizes. In Honolulu, shirtless surfers tote their prized accessory through luxury shopping centers along well-known shortcuts to the sea. Satisfied smiles and sandy toes return home after a morning of balancing atop unfurling waves powered by the pull of the moon. ___ Leahi & Makalei Beach Parks Almost hidden at the foot of Diamond Head are two oceanfront pocket parks so charming one wonders where the impressionist painters are. The lawn at Makalei Beach Park gives rise to yoga classes and meditation, while a little farther down Diamond Head Road lies Leahi Beach Park, where a stately vine-encased gazebo holds court at the seas’s edge. Down its salty steps at low tide, much is revealed in the receding surf. ___ Kaimana Beach If ever there was a “local’s” favorite beach, this is it. Home to all-day ohana picnics, morning paddle boarding, midday snorkeling, and the dreamiest of sunsets–and moon-sets, Kaimana Beach is warm and welcoming, like family. Sheltered by a reef that shreds the surf into a lake-like calm, a swim here ‘neath the swaying trade winds is (literally) an immersive sensory experience. ___ Kaimana Beach Hotel Arriving here feels like home, (assuming one’s home is a paradise of warm sand, shaded in brushstroke palm shadows, set to the rhythm of gentle waves and the occasional howl of a blender). Far from the frenzy of Waikiki, but close enough to walk to it, the Kaimana is perfectly located and right-sized, between the vast greenery of Kapiolani Park and the blue infinity of the Pacific. Simple rooms and a beloved beachside cafe tucked beneath a twisting Hau Tree. The same tree Robert Lewis Stephenson wrote poetry under in 1889. ___ Kapiolani Park Named after Queen Kapiolani, with Diamond Head forming its unmistakable crown, this great park nestles deep in the heart of Oahu locals. 300 acres of serenity located just east of Waikiki’s commotion. Expressive banyan trees generously canopy picnic areas, as manicured lawns host myriad activities. Kapiolani Park includes the Honolulu Zoo where Giraffes can be seen taking advantage of their height, peering over the perimeter fence at passersby below. ___ Shangri la Perched like a stately white seabird on a slab of black lava, Doris Duke’s Hawaiian estate is now a museum “dedicated to the furtherance and preservation of Islamic art”. In fact, the only museum dedicated exclusively to Islamic art in the United States, open to scholars, students and the public, as so directed in her will. Ms Duke, in her day the wealthiest woman in America, commissioned architect Marion Sims Wyeth, to realize a vision inspired by travels to Arabic countries, along with life and culture in Hawaii. Islamic architectural precision meets Hawaiian ease and openness. Quirky ingenuity also plays into the design with a massive glass livingroom door that, instead of sliding open, retracts into the floor—with a stop-setting at three feet high so she could enjoy the ocean breezes indoors while also keeping the dogs in. Tour tickets are available through the Honolulu Museum of Art . ___ Honolulu Museum of Art Perhaps the most satisfying art museum anywhere, this humble space, assembled around airy courtyards invites guests to enjoy its casual grace the way a favorite neighbor might welcome you in. A stunning permanent collection that celebrates the Hawaiian landscape and royal heritage forms the foundation for inspiring temporary exhibits and events. Not to mention the lovely alfresco cafe and extensive gift shop, themselves reason enough for a visit! ___ Downtown Inspirations Adding soul to state bureaucracy are some sculptural and architectural surprises in downtown HNL, amid the lawns of the state capital and Iolani palace. Noguchi’s Skygate (1977) is an imposing black steel “portal” linking the earth and cosmos, (or as Noguchi put it, “an evocation to the skies of Hawaii”). Its undulating form celebrates the twice-a-year phenomenon nicknamed “Lahaina Noon” where shadows normally cast by the sun vanish as the solar rays are angled straight down. Come see for yourself on May 26th, 12:28 pm, and on July 16th, 12:37 pm. Ever beautiful Queen Lilioukalani stands with “steadfast devotion in the hearts of her loyal people”. Fresh flowers are thoughtfully placed upon her likeness, an act of aloha that she appears to graciously offer in turn. The State Capitol rises like a modernist temple, its open-air architecture incorporating Hawaiian symbolic references to tall coconut palms, surging volcanoes, and the surrounding sea. –Between Beretania and King streets at Punchbowl Ave. ___ In the Pink The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened in 1927 like a pink hibiscus bloom welcoming the sunrise. Today, as then, its windows frame the angular contours of Diamond Head and languid curve of Waikiki bay. Its pink walls the perfect complement to the turquoise surf. Built on the exact location in paradise where King Kamehameha slept and Queen Liliuokalani summered, “royal” is indeed its reality, but in family-style. Bellmen, bartenders and housekeepers exude “ohana”, some having worked at the hotel for decades. Join the sunrise salutation on the beach and find your aloha as you immerse in the gentle waves. And by all means, rehydrate at the Mai Tai Bar, saluting the sunset with Hawaii’s ultimate elixir. ___ Chinatown A gritty quirkiness is etched into the old storefronts and aged faces along these fading movie-set streets. Asian calligraphy flickers and sways beneath 1800’s overhangs that still shade the sidewalks. Fantastic vintage shops, lively restaurants, and the best prices on fragrant lei are found here. The best lei shops are Cindy’s and Tina’s. Single Double and Hound & Quail are world-class vintage stores selling delightfully kitschy local wares. Native Books is a treasured emporium of Hawaiian heritage and innovative crafts. As tiki bars go Skull & Crown is so unique you’ll need a reservation. Oʻahu’s favorite food truck has evolved into a destination Vietnamese restaurant here, The Pig & The Lady . CHINATOWN TIPS: Cindy’s Lei Shoppe Single Double GQ’s take on Single Double, Hawaii Hound & Quail Native Books Skull & Crown Trading Co. ___ Honolulu Botanical Gardens Eucalyptus trees in skintight camouflage stand tall like tent poles supporting the jungle canopy, while their long scissor-shaped leaves cut the afternoon sun to ribbons. Trails sidewind down to a creek that one can hear but not see in this dense showcase of Hawaiian flora. Each standout species is definitively labeled along paths of discovery in this, one of Honolulu’s five well-maintained but wildly-natural gardens. ___ The Art of Lei Hawaii’s floral gift of aloha is a thread that binds peace, love, honor and friendship. A petaled chain linking us to the honored traditions of Hawaiian ancestry. A lei represents love. Giving a lei is an offering of one’s love. For this reason, never throw away a lei, as it would suggest throwing away the love of the giver. Instead, return the lei to the earth by hanging it in a tree or burying it, or let it dry naturally and eventually place it onto a fire. May Day in Hawaii is Lei Day, honoring the custom of lei making with symbolism and pageantry. Each island joins in the celebration, represented in its official-color and flower: Hawaii: red, ʻohia lehua Maui: pink, lokelani Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina Lanai: orange, kaunaoa Oahu: yellow or gold, ʻilima Molokai: green, kukui Kauai: purple, mokihana Niihau: white, pupu o Niihau shells Our two favorite lei shops can be found on the same quiet block of Maunakea Street in Chinatown. Cindy’s : 1034 Maunakea St. (808) 536-6538 Tina’s: 1136 Maunakea St. (808) 888-5310 ___ Allure of Diamond Head 19th century British mariners who came ashore at the foot of this now iconic mountain thought the sparkling calcite crystals in the sand were diamonds, hence the name. Its Hawaiian name is Leahi (brow of the tuna) in reference to the formation’s ridge line which resembles a dorsal fin. Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu reward one’s hike to the top of this 300,000-year old crater, the centerpiece of Hawaii's most popular State Park. ___ Diamond Head Community Gardens Diamond Head smiles down upon this sinless garden of Eden where ceramic Buddha’s and metal frogs frolic at the feet of bean stalks and stands of Swiss Chard. Neatly-arranged, beds of rich soil are tended to by their respective gardeners, each producing a stunning bounty of fruit, vegetables and flowers. Guests are welcomed to stroll through and admire–but not touch. Adjacent to Kapiolani park, one block south of Monsarrat Ave, between Paki and Leahi Avenues. ___ Local Eats (good and cheap) Island grocery store deli counters are as thrilling as seeing sea life through the widows at the Oahu Aquarium. The standout is Foodland stores, where thoughtfully prepared sushi and poke is made daily with the freshest fish at the most affordable prices. Small mom ‘n’ pop delis also crank out daily picnic plate lunches, featuring Ahi tuna rolls, Kalua pork, Lau Lau Chicken and much more. Among the best are Hawaii Sushi , Masa & Joyce and Waiahole Poi Factory , Diamond Head Market & Grill . ___ Kaimuki This delightfully eclectic neighborhood rests on the inland slope of Diamond Head. In the 1800’s, "Kai-moo-key" was King Kalakaua’s ostrich farm. Today, “ostrich”, might be found as a fabric pattern in several boutiques along Waialae Avenue, the main (but quirky) shopping corridor that cuts through the neighborhood. Creativity is a common chord resonating in Kaimuki, the boyhood home of revered Hawaiian musician, Israel Kamakawiwoole. Not to miss : The ever-scrumptious Mud Hen Water restaurant, the inventive and elegant Island Boy boutique , the mid-mod charm of Bean About Town coffee, and the vast and tasty Saturday Farmer’s Market at Kapiolani Community College. ___ KCC Farmer's Market Saturdays in Honolulu have added reason to celebrate the weekend with an amazing gathering of farmers, food trucks, bakers, florists, artists and healers known as the KCC Farmers Market. Nestled in the shaded parking lot of Kapiolani Community College, the combined superpowers of homegrown-Hawaii converge to trade their wares with an adoring public. Come early, it’s that good–and popular! ___ Tongg's Beach Towers These days, developers are required to build apartment and hotel towers at a responsible distance from the shore, but this eclectic collection of condos-in-paradise were built before those thoughtful state ordinances were introduced. Forgiving their shoreline proximity, each of these buildings at Tongg’s Beach, (where Kalakaua Ave meets Coconut Ave at the foot of Diamond Head), is a modernist marvel, designed by foremost architects of their day. Most notably, Vladimir Ossipoff , considered Hawaii’s Neutra, whose inventiveness and variety of styles is evident in many buildings on Oahu. Here, Ossipoff envisioned an Asian theatrical fantasy, complete with arched bridges dancing about like an over-caffeinated Kyoto temple. Ossipoff’s ultimate masterpiece is the Liljestrand House , a residence that seems to naturally emerge from its perch in the foothills high above Honolulu. One must reserve well ahead, but it’s worth the effort. ___ Waikiki Beach One might believe that Hawaiian gods poured sugar along this heavenly crescent to form the world’s most stunning beach. (The truth is, it’s civil engineers who, over time, have repurposed sand from nearby shoals–and faraway Manhattan Beach, CA in an effort to restore this 2 mile stretch of paradise). ___ In Hawaiian, Waikiki means spouting fresh water, for the springs and streams which fed the ancient wetlands here on the south shore of Oʻahu. In the 1800s, the grounds of Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel once served as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty who surfed the local swells atop longboards. It was here that “Duke” earned his fame as the king of surfing. Also on this hallowed ground is the beautiful Royal Hawaiian Center, the crown jewel of retail and dining, with daily cultural performances set in its Royal Grove. Waikiki is indeed a wild contrast between glorious nature rolling in on turquoise waves and delirious shopping tugging on your wallet like a riptide. And that’s just by day! As evening arrives, slip on that new Fendi for sunset cocktails and truly great hula at House Without a Key, followed by dinner at Morimoto Asia. Then cap the night off with jazz at the Blue Note. Finally, you’ll want to kick off those shoes you just bought and walk back to your hotel with your toes in the sand. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel Royal Hawaiian Center House Without A Key Morimoto Asia Waikiki Blue Note Waikiki ___ Duke Paoa Kahanamoku He greets the dawn each day, offering warmth and aloha to the early sunlight headed straight for the beach like so many surfers. The sculpture of “DUKE” at Kalakaua & Uluniu avenues honors the ultimate surfer and Hawaiʻi’s first tourism icon. He introduced the term “aloha” to the world, always noting that it is much more than a greeting. The spirit of aloha. “Alo” means “face”, as in to “face one another”. “Ha” means breath, to “breathe kindness and compassion into the world”. Duke proved that every day of his life. Including one stormy day in 1925, off Newport Beach, CA when he rescued eight fishermen tossed from their capsized boat using just his hands and his surfboard to pull them from the roiling sea one by one. Such heroism stands eternal now in bronze, perpetually-laden with fresh Lei, embodying the spirit of aloha amid sidewalk passersby and Waikiki beachgoers, just as he did in life. ___ Riding the Oahu Railway The breeze rustles our hair as we speed along at a mighty 2 miles-per-hour. Patience is a virtue aboard this vintage train as it trudges up the coast towards its one whistle stop for ice cream. We can nearly spy our destination on the horizon as the converging tracks point like a compass needle to Ko Olina Station. At times our goal appears to move farther away despite the earnest huff and puff of the locomotive. But arrive we finally do, to the shaded lawns of this hand-created oasis amid the sun-baked hardscabble of Oahu’s western shore. Children wave their Black Sheep Cream cones as adults hail mai tais topped with lilikoi foam at Monkeypod Kitchen bar. Then it’s back on the rails for the reverse ride back to Ewa Beach where a toy train museum completes our adventure. We highly recommend booking seats on Parlor Car 64, the deluxe personal coach of railway founder, Benjamin Dillingham, resplendent in oak, mahogany and birds-eye maple decor and rattan seats, running every second-Sunday of the month. Oahu Railway Black Sheep Cream Co. Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman ___ Byodo-In Temple A structure resplendent in a shade of red so loud one may feel it from afar. Or, perhaps that’s the sound of the three ton “bon-sho” brass bell ringing with repeated resonance like a mantra. We queue up to send a wish flying on a long log-on-a-rope that pounds into the side of the sacred bell, rendering a tone said to bring happiness, blessings, and a long life. The temple, a replica of a 1,000-year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan is set against the heaving green velvet curtain wall known as the Koolau mountains. The temple’s primary resident, Amida Buddha sits in golden splendor amid this hallowed fold in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, Kaneohe on the windward side of Oahu. ___ Back HAWAII Next

ISLAND OF VIS Indulge in timeless charm on this island between Italy and Croatia. Life between the rolling azure sea and the rows of verdant hillside vineyards is like a dance on this romantic outpost on the Adriatic. Dress Code : Swimsuit Giving new meaning to “Palm Sunday”, fireworks-shaped palm tree shadows lead the way from an afternoon dip back to the boat, where the only question will be whether to stay in your wet swim trunks or change into dry ones. After that, the island of Vis awaits further exploration, be it by land or sea. Either way, you’re guaranteed a beautiful time, as only a Croatian island can deliver. But one thing’s for certain, those trunks won’t be dry for long. ___ Intoxicating Beauty The swim-up town of Vis rests in the nook of a yacht-studded bay. The westernmost island of the south Dalmatian archipelago, Vis is located 32 miles from the mainland of Croatia and 94 miles from Italy. This comfortable distance in either direction has kept Vis less crowded than its neighbor islands. Terracotta rooftops and verdant hillsides, etched with family vineyards make the beauty of Vis all the more intoxicating. ___ Stiniva Beach A jewel treasured since the 4th century BC when Dionysus settled a Greek colony here, Vis is rich in turquoise coves and blessed with tranquil waters that beckon an afternoon dip. Secluded Stiniva Beach is reached only by boat or a steep cliff trail that's not too terrifying (once you're down) where the gods have saved you a spot. ___ Back CROATIA Next

Incense burner, Benesse Art Site, Naoshima Incense burner, AMAN Shanghai INCENSED A thin twirl of smoke unspools from the incense burner like hypnotizing hand gestures. A slow motion ghost, rising and drifting into a faint fog, the way a memory may appear in a room of the heart. The art of the incense burner is part of the pleasure. An homage to Brutalist factory design, complete with tapering smokestack, its masculinity teased with rose pink. From a gift shop at the Benesse Art Site , Naoshima, Japan. Or, a wooden incense cylinder made of the curved bark of a tree branch in China’s Yellow Mountains. Smoke slips through its fingerprint like openings that were die cut by nature. Curated by the AMAN shop in Shanghai. ___ Back Next

MATZAH BALL PHO Every culture has its take on chicken soup, but in this case, two very different cultures are combined in a pho-nomenal (sorry!) complement of the other. Representing the nation of Israel –and many delis in New York– is the masterful matzah ball, immersed in the pride and joy of Vietnamese cooking, chicken pho. Two heroes of their respective worlds giddily soaking together. New friends celebrating the small world of travel. Recipe from My Jewish Learning Yield: 6-8 servings Ingredients For the broth: 2 medium unpeeled yellow onions, halved 1 large 4”-5” piece of ginger, cut in half 5 quarts cold water 1 4-5 lb. chicken, cut into parts ½ lb. chicken wings 2 tsp kosher salt, or to taste 1 Tbsp rock sugar or Turbinado (raw) sugar 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise 1 tsp whole coriander seeds 2 Tbsp fish sauce or tamari 1 small white onion, thinly sliced 4 scallions, thinly sliced For the matzah balls: 1 cup matzah meal 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 4 large eggs, beaten ¼ cup schmaltz or oil (vegetable or safflower) ¼ cup minced scallion For the toppings: 1 large bunch of fresh Thai basil 2-3 limes cut into wedges 3 cups mung bean sprouts 2 Fresno chilies or jalapenos, sliced thin Hoisin sauce, to taste Sambal oelek (garlic chili sauce), to taste Sriracha, to taste Directions To make the broth: Char your onions and ginger by either placing them on a baking sheet under a broiler for 8-10 minutes or by charring them over a gas flame on your stovetop for a few minutes on each side. The onions and ginger should be nicely charred but still firm — this essential step will deepen the broth’s flavor. Once the onions and ginger are charred, remove the skin from the onion. Rinse the onion and ginger, and use a small knife to scrape off excess charred bits to prevent your broth from getting murky. Cut your chicken into parts, separating the breasts, legs, wings and backbone. This will ensure that your chicken cooks evenly and that the breasts will not become dry or tough when simmered. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the cinnamon, anise and coriander until lightly browned and fragrant, about 2-3 minutes. Be careful not to burn the spices. Add the onion, ginger and chicken to a large pot. Fill the pot with 5 quarts of water. Bring the water to a simmer; skim the impurities as they rise to the top. After 20 minutes of simmering, or once they’re cooked through, remove the chicken breasts and allow them to cool. Add the toasted spices, salt and sugar to the pot. Continue to gently simmer the mixture for 1 hour. Remove the remaining chicken parts and strain the liquid through a fine meshed sieve. Bring the liquid back to a simmer for another 20-30 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by about a quarter. This step will further deepen the broth’s flavor. While the broth is simmering, shred the chicken meat and reserve for serving. Once reduced, turn off the heat and add the fish sauce or tamari to the broth. Taste, and add additional seasoning if desired. To make the matzah balls: While the soup is simmering, in a large bowl whisk together the matzah meal, salt, baking powder and baking soda. Add the beaten egg and schmaltz/oil. Add the scallions. Mix everything together until just combined. Do not over-mix. Refrigerate the mixture for at least 30 minutes, and up to a day. Form the matzah ball mixture into even-sized balls. You can determine the size based on your preference, but know that they will double when cooked. It makes it easier to form the matzah balls if you rub a little oil on your hands beforehand. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Lower to a simmer and gently drop the matzah balls into simmering water. Place the lid on the pot and continue to simmer for 30 minutes. Once cooked, matzah balls are best stored in their cooking liquid. To serve the matzah ball pho: Add the shredded chicken, raw sliced onion and scallions to a bowl. Ladle hot broth into the bowl. Add the matzah balls to the soup. Serve along with basil, bean sprouts, lime wedges, hoisin and hot sauces. Allow people to garnish and customize their pho to their liking. * We added 3 large carrots, 1/2 bunch celery, and noodles to our broth. We also swapped out Thai basil for cilantro. Back Next

JASMINE BLOOM TEA A tea flower opens its petals like time-lapse photography –but in real time when immersed in hot water. Then comes the aroma of fresh jasmine rising and twirling as if from a genie’s bottle. This healthy tea blooms rich with antioxidants, however, any wellness benefits are surely secondary to its sensory performance. Tea artisans hand tie fresh green tea leaves and edible flowers to create blossoms of exquisite flavor and beauty. Once unfurled, it temptingly waves from behind glass like an undersea fantasy. We like Numi Flowering Tea. ___ Back Next

PARIS A curated list of what not to miss. This is The City of Lights, not just because of its nighttime glow, but because of the illumination it brings to one’s heart and mind. FIVE FAVES / PARIS Musée Rodin If there’s one tip I can confidently impart to those visiting (or residing in) Paris it is the Musée Rodin at sundown, just before they close for the day. Sunlight pours like Viognier through the tall windows, glazing the walls with diagonal stripes, while draping the bare musculature of Rodin’s subjects in form-fitting couture light. The storied residence of sculptor Auguste Rodin is veiled in a lace of shadows as late sunlight sketches fleeting patterns across the room. Faces that the artist suspended in time a hundred years ago look away as the sun finds a place to rest in the garden until tomorrow. ___ Parc de la Villette Architect Bernard Tschumi designed the Parc de la Villette, with the intention of creating “a space that exists in a vacuum”, something without historical precedent, to allow for the existence of a “non-place” based on “culture” rather than “nature.” The design of the park is a groundbreaking example of architectural deconstructivism. “By allowing visitors to experience the architecture of the park within this constructed vacuum, the time and activities that take place in that space begin to acquire a more vivid and authentic nature.” In simpler terms, it’s big, open and not at all structured like the Parisian parks of old. La Géode in the Sciences Center is an otherworldly mirrored dome housing an Omnimax theatre. ___ Paris Philharmonic Designed by Jean Nouvel, the new home of the Paris Philharmonic is renowned for its near perfect acoustics. The convulsing metallic exterior with interlocking MC Escher-esque patterns looks alive in the changing daylight and luminous at night. It is one of several civic music facilities located within Parc de la Villette . ___ Crepes as Art In the right hands, crepes become “origami”. Gently flipped and folded, a paper-thin circle of buckwheat becomes sculptural rapture, be it savory or sweet. This artwork also serves as sustenance for those seeking rest and replenishment midway up the steep hillside climb to Sacré Coeur. I recommend one such haven from those unforgiving stairs, where works of creperie art are rendered daily: Rozell Café & Creperie , Montmartre. ___ Pinault Collection Presented in the rotunda of the reimagined Bourse de Commerce , a group of monumental sculptures composed of wax, each with candles inside are lit on the first day of the exhibition. As the candles melt, the sculptures gradually disintegrate, sending faces, arms and other appendices crashing to the gallery floor, which, in turn become part of the exhibit. The renovated space is itself a work of art by Japanese architect Tadao Ando that is nothing short of spectacular. Multiple galleries now ring the 1800’s building in modern art, forming the latest must-see art venue in Paris. Untitled (2011) by Swiss artist Urs Fischer ___ Le Louvre If the sky were not dark you’d swear it was daylight. Such is the ambiance of an evening in the twin courtyards of Le Louvre . A glow that takes your breath away when stepping through the arched gateways into this sanctum of light. Cellos and flutes resonate in the open corridors, played by lone musicians hoping that a passerby’s euros will alight upon their performance. ___ Morning Light in St. Germain Saint Germain des Prés is a neighborhood that connotes masterpiece scenes of the Left Bank. The obsession of every self guided art tour of Paris. Where poets, artists and philosophers famously conversed at Café Flore over the roar of possibilities. Yet, here inside the church, a centuries old stillness is anointed in the colors of stained glass. A reverence so hushed one can almost hear the candles fluttering, or the prayers for which they burn. The brilliant author and musician, Patti Smith was recently in Paris on tour with her reunited band and posted a brief description of her morning walk: “I lit candles in the St Germain church for the children of the world, and then went to say hello to Picasso’s tribute to his friend, the poet Apollinaire, that beautiful head of Dora Maar (in the rear garden of the church) near Café de Flore.” Ah, a morning inspired by Patti Smith here where Sartre and Camus once philosophized over coffee in the fabled Left Bank of Paris. ___ Le Musée d’Orsay France has a love of art, and walks the walk to support it. In 1975, it was determined that a new museum was needed to represent the arts from the second half of the 19th century. At the same time, a retired Beaux-Arts train station was about to be demolished when visionary preservationists spoke up. Et voilà, the proposed museum and the rescued “gare” became one. Today, Le Musée d’Orsay is one of the world’s most inspired art spaces, housing artworks so famous and fabulous it weakens the knees. But its crescendo is the great clock window on the fifth floor. As cinematic and startling as a Hitchcock storyboard, this watch-work window provides the ultimate photo location and a sweeping view from the Seine to Sacré Coeur. ___ Le Centre Pompidou In making one’s way through the Marais neighborhood in Paris, the narrow stone streets suddenly widen like gates opening onto a fanciful world of color and form as Le Centre Pompidou comes into view. Renzo Piano’s early and revolutionary work literally turned architecture inside out by placing the traditionally hidden mechanical parts of a structure on the outside, forming what appears to be a wild bionic beast crouching in the middle of a 17th century village. A friendly beast though, with wonderful qualities. A generous art aficionado with room in his heart to share inspiration with architecture lovers on their pilgrimage to one of the great cultural venues of our time. ___ Le Jardin du Luxembourg With one’s first step into this grandest of all Paris gardens, Le Jardin du Luxembourg , the clammer of the 6th arrondissement quickly fades. The world itself, seems subdued into silence, except for the lapping of fountains. Ancient sculptures stand frozen in their moment, concealing centuries they’ve seen go by. Today, flowers overflow their urns while dreamers contort into green metal chairs, watching the daylight move across the formal garden like a lazy sundial. Images : The Medici Fountain was built in 1630 by Marie de’ Medici. "L'effort" bronze sculpture by Pierre Roche (1855-1922). Toy sailboats navigate the Central Fountain. 5 euros for 30 minutes of sailing. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of France for your world at home. The French Boulle Desk My office is anchored in 19th century splendor from Napoleon III’s France, (but I acquired it in this century from Nickey/Kehoe ). This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk is actually quite utilitarian. Hidden within its deceivingly compact size, it boasts a massive single drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the frufru. Tucked into the tight quarters of a Paris hotel in St. Germain, a helpful concierge plans out one’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back at home, a Boulle desk functions as a sort of personal concierge, providing an inspired place for charting life between travels. ___ Back FRANCE Next

FRENCH STYLE AT HOME My office is anchored in 19th century splendor with a Boulle table from Napoleon III’s France, that I picked up at the Nickey/Kehoe warehouse sale. This over-the-top desk is described in design parlance as “clean and classical, standing on fluted legs and decorated with brass inlays in motifs of the Louis XVI style.” Despite its “let them eat cake” appearance, the desk boasts some impressive utilitarian strengths as well: 1. Its deceivingly compact size. 2. A massive drawer that slips away unnoticed amid the frufru. In my home office space, where once a simple, straight-lined West Elm Parsons desk reigned, now resides this French Boulle desk in all its swirling wonder. The first and most fabulous design rule one learns is to mix old with new. Just like at the best parties, an aging ingenue adds wisdom and refined beauty to the modern conversation. A modern vase or lamp atop a Rococo desk speaks volumes. Or, the opposite, where an antique Art Nouveau piece brings warmth and panache to a slick modern space. Shake it up and see how opposites attract. Tucked into the tight quarters of a St. Germain, Paris hotel, a helpful concierge plans out a guest’s day in the 6th arrondissement, executed in exquisite detail on a petit, black lacquer Boulle desk with added privacy panel. Back in LA, my Boulle also functions as a sort of concierge, hosting memorabilia from trips gone by. A Chinese lion dog chop, custom made for me on the streets of Shanghai, has my initials carved into its marble base. A vintage brass pocket compass, (the classic traveler’s tool) was picked up at a shop in London. And, for those of us believers, a golden unicorn lamp, originally from Target, but I lassoed it at a Goodwill in Glendale. ___ Back Next

SINTRA A stunning storybook town unfolds in the mist, revealing wedding cake castles and stone fortresses from ions past. Step into this fairytale world, just an hour’s train ride from modern Lisbon. Moor is More Just an hour by train from Lisbon, one enters the storybook Sintra Cultural Landscape , a UNESCO World Heritage Site, crowned by the expansive Castle of the Moors. Constructed between the 8th and 9th centuries, it ascends the hillsides like a creature from beneath the earth. Its stepped battlements give rise to scenes of marauding armies, relentlessly challenging it through generations. Today it stands open to all, beckoning visitors to traverse its ancient walls. ___ Pena Palace Across the hillsides from the Moorish Castle, the colorful facades of the National Palace of Pena emerge through the morning fog. Originally the residence of 9th century Islamic Moorish rulers, it was later captured by Portugal’s first king, Afonso Henriques, The Conqueror in the 12th century. The playful, present day melange of Gothic, Manueline, Moorish and Mudéjar architectural styles were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside and out, the palace and it’s nearby gardens are a royal dazzle for the eye. Testament to its strategic hilltop-near-the-sea location, fog and mist add mystery to timeless charm. A feathered patrol paddles the meandering ponds like royal sentries while expressive gargoyles oversee the higher grounds. ___ Storybook Storefronts It’s not just about castles and royals in Sintra, as the townsfolk illustrate with genuine warmth. I am drawn to the little shops and cafes clustered along the hill in storybook fashion. The charm is rendered in tile mosaics on shop walls and spelled out on steps leading to their doors. ___ Quinta da Regaleira There are many extravagant palaces in Sintra whose soaring spires punctuate the sky, but this tower points down 27-meters into the ground like an inverted tower. Imagine the dark, medieval dampness below ground as you descend the spiral staircase alone, blindfolded, a sword held close to your heart. Nine flights of stairs into the earth – a number that represents the nine founders of the mysterious Templar order, you reach the bottom of the well, not for water, but to walk the dark labyrinth trying to find your way back up towards the light. If you made it you were welcomed as a newly initiated member of the sect. Today, one’s initiation to Quinta da Regaleira includes a lesson in patience as you wait for the crowd to clear before snapping your cinematic moment on the spiral staircase. After all, patience is a virtue, even for Instagrammers. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next

TABLE TABLEAUS Organic items, such as plants, flowers or fruit, grouped together with a favorite memento from your travels will magically grow into tabletop magic. You’ll see. Try grouping like-items of differing heights conjuring consistency and variety all at once. Look around for same-color items to become your design hook. Who knew pink could make such a strong stand on an entry table? Take your tableaus on tour, rotating these artful groupings throughout the house, as a change of surface becomes a new performance stage. Play off your wall colors. Create a story between books on a shelf. Your travel mementos become literature when paired with similar, or even contrasting elements. In the fall of 2019, we were standing in the first room of a three-room deep antique shop in Xidi, China, near the foothills of the Yellow Mountain, (the location of the opening scene in Ang Lee’s film, Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon) when I realized I needed everything that the woman was selling. My partner, Huy (whose inner dinner gong was ringing) encouraged me to sleep on it. Back at our little inn, I asked “ Was there anything in that shop that caught your eye? ” “ Well ” he replied with some reluctance, “ there WAS an interesting rock planter ” (A solid 30lbs of undulating stone with a natural open basin in the center for plants, or a tiny fishpond). “ I noticed that too! ” I exclaimed in the assumption that this will merit a return to the shop of dreams. The next day the stone was in our carry-on luggage heading home, although the roller bag bearing the weighty rock would soon sacrifice two of its four wheels in route. Once back in LA, the rock landed as the centerpiece on our dining room table where we’ve recently noticed some fun faces emerging from the stone like a Chinese Mt Rushmore, featuring at least two dogs, one earnest looking serpent, and a comical man with Cyrano’s ample nose. ___ Back Come HITHER

1 Hanalei Pier This unassuming concrete path leads to a tin roof gazebo with an epic view of paradise. A rough hewn temple of sorts that welcomes all to stand and gaze –or to use as a diving board! HANALEI PIER 2 Kokee State Park 45 miles of easy hiking trails wind their way to sunny cliff-sides with sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast, and the most stunning vista of all, the Kalalau Lookout. KOKEE STATE PARK 3 Limahuli Garden This misty garden nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds in the self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as "Ahupua". Reservations are advised. LIMAHULI GARDEN 4 Waimea Plantation Cottages 59 authentic plantation cottages from the 1800’s welcome your stay in comfortable Hawaiian style, at surprisingly affordable rates. WAIMEA PLANTATION COTTAGES 5 Talk Story Books “The westernmost bookstore in the US” is perched like its resident cat on the edge of Kauai, greeting readers from all over the globe –with aloha. TALK STORY BOOKSTORE Back KAUAI Next