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1 Hanalei Pier This unassuming concrete path leads to a tin roof gazebo with an epic view of paradise. A rough hewn temple of sorts that welcomes all to stand and gaze –or to use as a diving board! HANALEI PIER 2 Kokee State Park 45 miles of easy hiking trails wind their way to sunny cliff-sides with sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast, and the most stunning vista of all, the Kalalau Lookout. KOKEE STATE PARK 3 Limahuli Garden This misty garden nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds in the self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as "Ahupua". Reservations are advised. LIMAHULI GARDEN 4 Waimea Plantation Cottages 59 authentic plantation cottages from the 1800’s welcome your stay in comfortable Hawaiian style, at surprisingly affordable rates. WAIMEA PLANTATION COTTAGES 5 Talk Story Books “The westernmost bookstore in the US” is perched like its resident cat on the edge of Kauai, greeting readers from all over the globe –with aloha. TALK STORY BOOKSTORE Back KAUAI Next

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OAHU Like a sampler box of each island, Oahu has Maui’s beaches, Kauai’s waterfalls, Lanai’s pineapple fields, Molokai’s mountains and Hawaii Island’s ancient relics, plus groundbreaking art, music, food, nightlife and of course, surfing. The only thing missing is an active volcano. FIVE FAVES / OAHU Surf Lore Oahu is known as the Gathering Place–and most gatherings come with surfboards. They are everywhere, in all colors and sizes. In Honolulu, shirtless surfers tote their prized accessory through luxury shopping centers along well-known shortcuts to the sea. Satisfied smiles and sandy toes return home after a morning of balancing atop unfurling waves powered by the pull of the moon. ___ Leahi & Makalei Beach Parks Almost hidden at the foot of Diamond Head are two oceanfront pocket parks so charming one wonders where the impressionist painters are. The lawn at Makalei Beach Park gives rise to yoga classes and meditation, while a little farther down Diamond Head Road lies Leahi Beach Park, where a stately vine-encased gazebo holds court at the seas’s edge. Down its salty steps at low tide, much is revealed in the receding surf. ___ Kaimana Beach If ever there was a “local’s” favorite beach, this is it. Home to all-day ohana picnics, morning paddle boarding, midday snorkeling, and the dreamiest of sunsets–and moon-sets, Kaimana Beach is warm and welcoming, like family. Sheltered by a reef that shreds the surf into a lake-like calm, a swim here ‘neath the swaying trade winds is (literally) an immersive sensory experience. ___ Kaimana Beach Hotel Arriving here feels like home, (assuming one’s home is a paradise of warm sand, shaded in brushstroke palm shadows, set to the rhythm of gentle waves and the occasional howl of a blender). Far from the frenzy of Waikiki, but close enough to walk to it, the Kaimana is perfectly located and right-sized, between the vast greenery of Kapiolani Park and the blue infinity of the Pacific. Simple rooms and a beloved beachside cafe tucked beneath a twisting Hau Tree. The same tree Robert Lewis Stephenson wrote poetry under in 1889. ___ Kapiolani Park Named after Queen Kapiolani, with Diamond Head forming its unmistakable crown, this great park nestles deep in the heart of Oahu locals. 300 acres of serenity located just east of Waikiki’s commotion. Expressive banyan trees generously canopy picnic areas, as manicured lawns host myriad activities. Kapiolani Park includes the Honolulu Zoo where Giraffes can be seen taking advantage of their height, peering over the perimeter fence at passersby below. ___ Shangri la Perched like a stately white seabird on a slab of black lava, Doris Duke’s Hawaiian estate is now a museum “dedicated to the furtherance and preservation of Islamic art”. In fact, the only museum dedicated exclusively to Islamic art in the United States, open to scholars, students and the public, as so directed in her will. Ms Duke, in her day the wealthiest woman in America, commissioned architect Marion Sims Wyeth, to realize a vision inspired by travels to Arabic countries, along with life and culture in Hawaii. Islamic architectural precision meets Hawaiian ease and openness. Quirky ingenuity also plays into the design with a massive glass livingroom door that, instead of sliding open, retracts into the floor—with a stop-setting at three feet high so she could enjoy the ocean breezes indoors while also keeping the dogs in. Tour tickets are available through the Honolulu Museum of Art . ___ Honolulu Museum of Art Perhaps the most satisfying art museum anywhere, this humble space, assembled around airy courtyards invites guests to enjoy its casual grace the way a favorite neighbor might welcome you in. A stunning permanent collection that celebrates the Hawaiian landscape and royal heritage forms the foundation for inspiring temporary exhibits and events. Not to mention the lovely alfresco cafe and extensive gift shop, themselves reason enough for a visit! ___ Downtown Inspirations Adding soul to state bureaucracy are some sculptural and architectural surprises in downtown HNL, amid the lawns of the state capital and Iolani palace. Noguchi’s Skygate (1977) is an imposing black steel “portal” linking the earth and cosmos, (or as Noguchi put it, “an evocation to the skies of Hawaii”). Its undulating form celebrates the twice-a-year phenomenon nicknamed “Lahaina Noon” where shadows normally cast by the sun vanish as the solar rays are angled straight down. Come see for yourself on May 26th, 12:28 pm, and on July 16th, 12:37 pm. Ever beautiful Queen Lilioukalani stands with “steadfast devotion in the hearts of her loyal people”. Fresh flowers are thoughtfully placed upon her likeness, an act of aloha that she appears to graciously offer in turn. The State Capitol rises like a modernist temple, its open-air architecture incorporating Hawaiian symbolic references to tall coconut palms, surging volcanoes, and the surrounding sea. –Between Beretania and King streets at Punchbowl Ave. ___ In the Pink The Royal Hawaiian Hotel opened in 1927 like a pink hibiscus bloom welcoming the sunrise. Today, as then, its windows frame the angular contours of Diamond Head and languid curve of Waikiki bay. Its pink walls the perfect complement to the turquoise surf. Built on the exact location in paradise where King Kamehameha slept and Queen Liliuokalani summered, “royal” is indeed its reality, but in family-style. Bellmen, bartenders and housekeepers exude “ohana”, some having worked at the hotel for decades. Join the sunrise salutation on the beach and find your aloha as you immerse in the gentle waves. And by all means, rehydrate at the Mai Tai Bar, saluting the sunset with Hawaii’s ultimate elixir. ___ Chinatown A gritty quirkiness is etched into the old storefronts and aged faces along these fading movie-set streets. Asian calligraphy flickers and sways beneath 1800’s overhangs that still shade the sidewalks. Fantastic vintage shops, lively restaurants, and the best prices on fragrant lei are found here. The best lei shops are Cindy’s and Tina’s. Single Double and Hound & Quail are world-class vintage stores selling delightfully kitschy local wares. Native Books is a treasured emporium of Hawaiian heritage and innovative crafts. As tiki bars go Skull & Crown is so unique you’ll need a reservation. Oʻahu’s favorite food truck has evolved into a destination Vietnamese restaurant here, The Pig & The Lady . CHINATOWN TIPS: Cindy’s Lei Shoppe Single Double GQ’s take on Single Double, Hawaii Hound & Quail Native Books Skull & Crown Trading Co. ___ Honolulu Botanical Gardens Eucalyptus trees in skintight camouflage stand tall like tent poles supporting the jungle canopy, while their long scissor-shaped leaves cut the afternoon sun to ribbons. Trails sidewind down to a creek that one can hear but not see in this dense showcase of Hawaiian flora. Each standout species is definitively labeled along paths of discovery in this, one of Honolulu’s five well-maintained but wildly-natural gardens. ___ The Art of Lei Hawaii’s floral gift of aloha is a thread that binds peace, love, honor and friendship. A petaled chain linking us to the honored traditions of Hawaiian ancestry. A lei represents love. Giving a lei is an offering of one’s love. For this reason, never throw away a lei, as it would suggest throwing away the love of the giver. Instead, return the lei to the earth by hanging it in a tree or burying it, or let it dry naturally and eventually place it onto a fire. May Day in Hawaii is Lei Day, honoring the custom of lei making with symbolism and pageantry. Each island joins in the celebration, represented in its official-color and flower: Hawaii: red, ohia lehua Maui: pink, lokelani Kahoolawe: gray or silver, hinahina Lanai: orange, kaunaoa Oahu: yellow or gold, ilima Molokai: green, kukui Kauai: purple, mokihana Niihau: white, pupu o Niihau shells Our two favorite lei shops can be found on the same quiet block of Maunakea Street in Chinatown. Cindy’s : 1034 Maunakea St. (808) 536-6538 Tina’s: 1136 Maunakea St. (808) 888-5310 ___ Allure of Diamond Head 19th century British mariners who came ashore at the foot of this now iconic mountain thought the sparkling calcite crystals in the sand were diamonds, hence the name. Its Hawaiian name is Leahi (brow of the tuna) in reference to the formation’s ridge line which resembles a dorsal fin. Stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Honolulu reward one’s hike to the top of this 300,000-year old crater, the centerpiece of Hawaii's most popular State Park. ___ Diamond Head Community Gardens Diamond Head smiles down upon this sinless garden of Eden where ceramic Buddha’s and metal frogs frolic at the feet of bean stalks and stands of Swiss Chard. Neatly-arranged, beds of rich soil are tended to by their respective gardeners, each producing a stunning bounty of fruit, vegetables and flowers. Guests are welcomed to stroll through and admire–but not touch. Adjacent to Kapiolani park, one block south of Monsarrat Ave, between Paki and Leahi Avenues. ___ Local Eats (good and cheap) Island grocery store deli counters are as thrilling as seeing sea life through the widows at the Oahu Aquarium. The standout is Foodland stores, where thoughtfully prepared sushi and poke is made daily with the freshest fish at the most affordable prices. Small mom ‘n’ pop delis also crank out daily picnic plate lunches, featuring Ahi tuna rolls, Kalua pork, Lau Lau Chicken and much more. Among the best are Hawaii Sushi , Masa & Joyce and Waiahole Poi Factory , Diamond Head Market & Grill . ___ Kaimuki This delightfully eclectic neighborhood rests on the inland slope of Diamond Head. In the 1800’s, "Kai-moo-key" was King Kalakaua’s ostrich farm. Today, “ostrich”, might be found as a fabric pattern in several boutiques along Waialae Avenue, the main (but quirky) shopping corridor that cuts through the neighborhood. Creativity is a common chord resonating in Kaimuki, the boyhood home of revered Hawaiian musician, Israel Kamakawiwoole. Not to miss : The ever-scrumptious Mud Hen Water restaurant, the inventive and elegant Island Boy boutique , the mid-mod charm of Bean About Town coffee, and the vast and tasty Saturday Farmer’s Market at Kapiolani Community College. ___ KCC Farmer's Market Saturdays in Honolulu have added reason to celebrate the weekend with an amazing gathering of farmers, food trucks, bakers, florists, artists and healers known as the KCC Farmers Market. Nestled in the shaded parking lot of Kapiolani Community College, the combined superpowers of homegrown-Hawaii converge to trade their wares with an adoring public. Come early, it’s that good–and popular! ___ Tongg's Beach Towers These days, developers are required to build apartment and hotel towers at a responsible distance from the shore, but this eclectic collection of condos-in-paradise were built before those thoughtful state ordinances were introduced. Forgiving their shoreline proximity, each of these buildings at Tongg’s Beach, (where Kalakaua Ave meets Coconut Ave at the foot of Diamond Head), is a modernist marvel, designed by foremost architects of their day. Most notably, Vladimir Ossipoff , considered Hawaii’s Neutra, whose inventiveness and variety of styles is evident in many buildings on Oahu. Here, Ossipoff envisioned an Asian theatrical fantasy, complete with arched bridges dancing about like an over-caffeinated Kyoto temple. Ossipoff’s ultimate masterpiece is the Liljestrand House , a residence that seems to naturally emerge from its perch in the foothills high above Honolulu. One must reserve well ahead, but it’s worth the effort. ___ Waikiki Beach One might believe that Hawaiian gods poured sugar along this heavenly crescent to form the world’s most stunning beach. (The truth is, it’s civil engineers who, over time, have repurposed sand from nearby shoals–and faraway Manhattan Beach, CA in an effort to restore this 2 mile stretch of paradise). ___ In Hawaiian, Waikiki means spouting fresh water, for the springs and streams which fed the ancient wetlands here on the south shore of Oʻahu. In the 1800s, the grounds of Waikiki’s Royal Hawaiian Hotel once served as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty who surfed the local swells atop longboards. It was here that “Duke” earned his fame as the king of surfing. Also on this hallowed ground is the beautiful Royal Hawaiian Center, the crown jewel of retail and dining, with daily cultural performances set in its Royal Grove. Waikiki is indeed a wild contrast between glorious nature rolling in on turquoise waves and delirious shopping tugging on your wallet like a riptide. And that’s just by day! As evening arrives, slip on that new Fendi for sunset cocktails and truly great hula at House Without a Key, followed by dinner at Morimoto Asia. Then cap the night off with jazz at the Blue Note. Finally, you’ll want to kick off those shoes you just bought and walk back to your hotel with your toes in the sand. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel Royal Hawaiian Center House Without A Key Morimoto Asia Waikiki Blue Note Waikiki ___ Duke Paoa Kahanamoku He greets the dawn each day, offering warmth and aloha to the early sunlight headed straight for the beach like so many surfers. The sculpture of “DUKE” at Kalakaua & Uluniu avenues honors the ultimate surfer and Hawaiʻi’s first tourism icon. He introduced the term “aloha” to the world, always noting that it is much more than a greeting. The spirit of aloha. “Alo” means “face”, as in to “face one another”. “Ha” means breath, to “breathe kindness and compassion into the world”. Duke proved that every day of his life. Including one stormy day in 1925, off Newport Beach, CA when he rescued eight fishermen tossed from their capsized boat using just his hands and his surfboard to pull them from the roiling sea one by one. Such heroism stands eternal now in bronze, perpetually-laden with fresh Lei, embodying the spirit of aloha amid sidewalk passersby and Waikiki beachgoers, just as he did in life. ___ Riding the Oahu Railway The breeze rustles our hair as we speed along at a mighty 2 miles-per-hour. Patience is a virtue aboard this vintage train as it trudges up the coast towards its one whistle stop for ice cream. We can nearly spy our destination on the horizon as the converging tracks point like a compass needle to Ko Olina Station. At times our goal appears to move farther away despite the earnest huff and puff of the locomotive. But arrive we finally do, to the shaded lawns of this hand-created oasis amid the sun-baked hardscabble of Oahu’s western shore. Children wave their Black Sheep Cream cones as adults hail mai tais topped with lilikoi foam at Monkeypod Kitchen bar. Then it’s back on the rails for the reverse ride back to Ewa Beach where a toy train museum completes our adventure. We highly recommend booking seats on Parlor Car 64, the deluxe personal coach of railway founder, Benjamin Dillingham, resplendent in oak, mahogany and birds-eye maple decor and rattan seats, running every second-Sunday of the month. Oahu Railway Black Sheep Cream Co. Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman ___ Byodo-In Temple A structure resplendent in a shade of red so loud one may feel it from afar. Or, perhaps that’s the sound of the three ton “bon-sho” brass bell ringing with repeated resonance like a mantra. We queue up to send a wish flying on a long log-on-a-rope that pounds into the side of the sacred bell, rendering a tone said to bring happiness, blessings, and a long life. The temple, a replica of a 1,000-year old Byodo-In Temple in Uji, Japan is set against the heaving green velvet curtain wall known as the Koolau mountains. The temple’s primary resident, Amida Buddha sits in golden splendor amid this hallowed fold in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park, Kaneohe on the windward side of Oahu. ___ Pill Box Trail (aka: Kaiwa Trail) This is why God created all-terrain sneakers and Tevas. A heavenly 30-minute slippery slope that delivers hikers to a spectacular view of Lani Kai beach with its busty twin islands rising from an impossibly-turquoise sea as the languid windward coast stretches out in both directions, all poised against the wickedly jagged wall of the Koolau Mountains. Not to mention the two namesake WWII “pillbox” lookout bunkers to contemplate atop once you reach the heights. The Kaiwa trailhead is located in Lani Kai, on Kaelepulu Dr, opposite the Mid-Pacific Country Club. ___ KAILUA During the Obama era, I used to refer to Kailua as “paradise at the presidential level”, given the then president’s penchant for this perfect beach on his home island. In any era, this is perfection. Especially mornings, walking the dogs along the sugary-white crescent of sand from one end to the other—and back. Nico’s Kailua serves great meals and local music at the north end of town while Buzz’s Steak House tantalizes the south end with strong mai tais and a menu of favorites. Kailua Beach Park Nico's Kailua Buzz's Original Steak House ___ Kawela Bay A blissful Sunday drive around the entire island of Oahu is a day spent visiting every Hawaiian island, as Oahu is a sampler of all of them. Perhaps the best part of the drive is the least-known. The hidden pleasure of Kawela Bay, with its gentle surf and crescent beach. A fruit stand on the inland side of Kamehameha Hwy 38 marks the spot at Kawela Camp Rd, just west of Turtle Bay. Park on the roadside and slip through the official gap in the fence, then amble straight to the seashore under the haunted arms of ancient Banyan trees to the crystal blue bay. Stretch out your towel on the warm sand and ponder the years that have passed without you knowing of such tranquil beauty. ___ Drive-Through Paradise Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden is a drive-through paradise. Every pull-off along the tranquil roadway represents a unique tropical region from around the world. Leaves of every sort and size wave as we pass while crazy arrays of birds chirp and flutter. Known as "a peaceful refuge”, the park was designed to provide flood protection for Kaneohe, in perhaps the most artful work ever built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Even the restrooms and picnic pavilions blend in as modernist tributes to the natural surroundings. Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden ___ A Tale of Two Heiaus The Hawaiian Heiau is a place of worship from ancient times. Some were sacred religious complexes where rituals involving human or animal sacrifice and other ceremonies took place. Today, their geometric black lava ruins rest in reverent silence on beds of verdant grasses. KEAIWA HEIAU This kinder, gentler temple is believed to have life-giving powers where Hawaiian herb doctors once practiced, using select herbs grown in nearby gardens. PUU O MAHUKA HEIAU A massive shrine embossed on the landscape atop an high cliff, this, the largest Heiau on Oahu overlooks Waimea Bay and the abundant Waimea Valley. It’s torchlights served as a communications system with neighboring Kauai island. Top two images: Keaiwa Heiau Bottom image: Puu O Mahuka Heiau ___ Back HAWAII Next

Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander Unique Travel Resource Beautiful sunset view at Mont Saint-Michel castle in Brittany, France by best travel blog Unique Travel Resource The best season to travel, gorgeous autumn leaves at the temple gates in Kyoto, Japan by top travel blog Unique Travel Resource Best private beach to visit, Stiniva Beach, Vis, Croatia by top travel guide Hither and Wander 1/15 Awa y to discover. Journey with us as we explore dist inct d estinations . Discover our favorite picks, tips and travel- inspired ideas for your world at home. Come hither , and wander with us! EXPLORE DESTINATIONS C O N S U L T I N G Creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brands. LEARN MORE JOIN OUR NEWSLETTER Away to connect. An exclusive page of seasonal travel tips and lifestyle ideas only available in our newsletter when you join! SUBSCRIBE THANKS FOR SUBSCRIBING ! As a creative director in global travel publishing, I focus on the sensory experiences that make a journey memorable. Collaborations with award-winning writers and photographers sharpened my vision in creating this collection, mostly shot on my iPhone. — Haines Wilkerson Founder READ MORE FOLLOW @hitherandwander

HITHER The world we bring home Life’s a trip. Wake up each day to the beauty and creativity inspired by travel. Come hither, and explore cultural curios, creative recipes and design concepts to enhance your world. Discover it here, and stay with us for much more arriving soon. LIVING TASTE

HAWAII Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. A paradise that eluded discovery until Captain Cook approached its shores in 1778. In its modern incarnation, Hawaii honors its heritage and native language with “talk story” teachings, and blooms anew with the spirit of aloha. HAWAII ISLAND (Coming Soon) KAUAI The Garden Isle MAUI (Coming Soon) OAHU The Gathering Place

FIVE FAVES Quick lists of our favorite things to do in the most captivating places. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI FIVE FAVES / KYOTO FIVE FAVES / LISBON FIVE FAVES / OAHU FIVE FAVES / PARIS FIVE FAVES / PORTO FIVE FAVES / PROVENCE FIVE FAVES / TOKYO

KYOTO Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. FIVE FAVES / KYOTO Living Zen Each footprint vanishes into the grooves of rhythmic circles, as a zen gardener pulls his broom methodically through the gravel, creating linear grooves designed to promote stillness in the viewer's mind. Deeply part of Japanese living and culture, zen gardens were first established in the 13th Century as a place for monks to meditate Buddha's teachings. Here, at the stunning Ginkaku-ji Temple , this art form is maintained daily –a practice, in itself a meditation. ___ Kyoto Through a Veil Sunlight dapples the ground, highlighting an array of colorful leaves that have quietly found their seat. A playful breeze rustles the scene, rearranging the pattern in an ongoing evolution. Kyoto, as seen through the veil of fall, is as red as apples and cherries. So different a picture than the countless white blossoms exhibited in these exact same trees just two seasons ago. A recurrent joy for the wide-eyed visitor. The glazed rooftops of the Enkouji Temple appear like steps that follow the hillside slope toward the glow of central Kyoto. Like a lantern, the town beckons the eye, even if the heart begs to stay here on this elevated plain, bathed in fall color and steeped in enlightenment. ___ Light + Space = Tranquility The essence of Japanese architectural design is minimalism, effortlessly at one with the outside landscape. Walls of rice paper panes glide between the floor and ceiling in a widened embrace of the view, while softened sunlight illuminates the room through the parchment diffusion. The outside enters like a welcome guest, framed in perfect proportion to the interior space. From the tranquil Honen-in Temple , to a bustling Blue Bottle Coffee Cafe , Kyoto is home to this timeless design practice, so comfortable in its place, as if ordained by nature. ___ Japanese Joinery Centuries before the advent of screws and metal fasteners, Japanese builders developed ways to adjoin wooden beams in the construction of buildings that would stand for generations. Intricately carved “male” ends of posts and beams are joined with geometrically, matching female ends to create load-bearing bracing. Nowhere is this engineering art form more evident than in the Anraku-ji Temple . Look up and be amazed. All done by hand, without the aid of a computer program or 3D printer! ___ Kimonos The national garment of Japan is also the most beautiful interpretation of unisex fashion. History and heritage is woven into each design, along with comfort and practicality. In Kyoto’s Gion district , history and Japanese culture literally line the streets. Hence, a haven for great kimono watching. But don’t just admire, acquire!! Vintage, bespoke and everyday options are available, which makes for a fun treasure hunt. We suggest meandering to YAYA , a little vintage boutique in Southern Higashiyama . ___ Prayer Plaques Charming house-shaped wooden plaques called Ema are layered in an orderly, shingled jumble at Saginomori-jinja Shrine and other Shinto shrines all across Kyoto. Purchase one and sit with it in your lap while studying the treetops overhead as they tickle the clouds. Think about this moment and the time before –and ahead. Put a prayer into words and scribe it onto your plaque, then fasten it amongst the others –your wish now afloat like a whisper. ___ Mochi and Matcha The squishy delight of Mochi is a true Japanese treat. A rice cake made of a short-grain rice and a dash of water, sugar, and cornstarch. The steamed rice is pounded into a paste, then formed into shapes, usually that of a bite size igloo. In Japan, it is traditionally made in a ceremony called mochitsuki . Originating in China, Matcha is a finely ground powder made with specially grown green tea leaves and is enjoyed across all of East Asia –and now, the world. These days, it is mostly produced in Japan, where one may experience its special allure at the Honen-in Temple where it is served along with a dreamily presented side of Mochi! For those who desire a fuller menu, nearby is the Green Terrace Riverside Cafe located just along the Philosopher's Walk , the renowned pedestrian path that follows a cherry tree-lined canal in Northern Higashiyama district. ___ Ryokan Genhouin At this quaint inn in Kyoto, the arrival of each new guest is denoted with the addition of two shoes joining the lineup of footwear at the front slatted-wood door. One can immediately see before entering if it’s a full house or not. No matter how many guests are in residence, this tranquil ryokan is as quiet as a sleeping cat. In each room, a ceramic vase with a single-stem flower occupies a zen niche, thoughtfully waiting to inspire contemplation. But the pièce de résistance is the onsite onsen . A renewing ritual that calls out to the visitor exploring Kyoto to return and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! ___ Soba at Juu-go Japanese soba noodles are made with buckwheat. Brown and flat and thin like spaghetti. It’s strong in flavor and often served cold, in salads or with dipping sauces. In Kyoto, it’s also performance art at Juu-go where the kitc hen becomes theater as the chef makes and serves the noodles right before your eyes. Confused between SOBA and UDON noodles? Here’s a simple tip: SOBA has a “B”, as in Buckwheat”, or “Brown”. ___ Groundbreaking Women Centuries before Martha Graham redefined modern dance, Izumo no Okuni invented the theatrical art form of kabuki here on the dry riverbed of the Kamo River . By the mid 1600’s, Okuni's troupe became immensely popular, renowned for their performers who were often lower-class women recruited to act in her all-female theatre group. Her groundbreaking work is present today in reenactments along the parched river and in Japan’s not-to-miss Kabuki theaters. ___ Gion Calling Within the cobbled labyrinth of Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama District , all pathways seem to lead to the tall and graceful, multi-roof Hokan-ji Temple , known locally as the Yasaka Pagoda, or “Tower of Yasaka”. Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, here in the storied warrens of Gion , where time stands still. ___ Yasaka Shrine The mesmerizing glow of the Yasaka Shrine at night serves as a beacon that leads to the historic Gion district . A gentle breeze rolls across the plaza, encouraging rows of lanterns to sway hypnotically, as if a spirit ran its hand along a curtain of light. A tradition known as Hatsumode - the first shrine visit of the new year - invites worshipers to take home a flame from the shrine’s sacred fire, with which to cook their first meal of the new year. ___ Bamboo Garden One feels a thrilling sense of peace in seeing the midday sunlight slant through the towering bamboo like swords. A “thrilling peacefulness” may be a contradiction in terms, but such is the sense of balance at Enkouji Temple . Darkness threaded with light. Cavalier breezes stilled. Yellow challenging green. Opposites together, in peace. ___ Spirituality Allow your thoughts to drift like smoke across the landscape at Nanzenji Temple with its massive brass urn containing a mountain of sand that hosts a grove of incense sticks. Each stick lit with hopes and dreams, as it lofts a scented cloud towards the gods. At Saginomori Temple , take the thick rope in both hands and pull down hard. Your heart is heard in the ringing of the bell. ___ Kyoto Footsteps There is an inspired moment in Kyoto that’s very special. The moment when one steps through the modest doorway of an ancient temple. The mountains and trees seem to bow in greeting the visitor. Imagine centuries of footsteps that have traversed this very threshold. Yours newly added, like new links on an eternal chain. Top two images: Nanzen-ji Temple Bottom image: Manshu-in Temple ___ Back JAPAN Next

DESTINATIONS A travel journal exploring the personality of places, focusing on distinct destinations and curated highlights. Discover our favorites below—with more coming soon! Also check out our top five picks in the places we love. FIVE FAVES CROATIA FRANCE JAPAN MONTENEGRO PORTUGAL UNITED STATES

1 The Okura Hotel Lobby This triumph of Japanese mid-century design, recently lost to demolition was recreated in a new high rise patterned after the original hotel. A project overseen by the son of the original architect, Yoshiro Taniguchi. THE OKURA HOTEL LOBBY 2 Bookstores Grand spaces with shelves vaulting upward to the sky, or tiny coves of lovingly curated literature. Featured: Ginza Tsutaya Books TOKYO BOOKSTORES 3 Main Bar Brilliant A MadMen setting perfectly preserved inside an otherwise unremarkable hotel. Crisp cocktails crafted with artisanal precision by buttoned-down bartenders straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. MAIN BAR BRILLIANT 4 Udatsu Sushi Gorgeous dinner served on ceramics by J enny Sh araf (too fun and too talented) — per the ever fabulous David Lee Davis . UDATSU SUSHI 5 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center This wonderful shop-lined area of Old Tokyo is now anchored with a fantastic modern wood facade visitors center. Inside the staff is incredibly helpful, including hand-drawn maps to vintage kimono boutiques and Japanese vinyl stores. ASAKUSA CULTURE CENTER Back TOKYO Next