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KYOTO Leaves scurry in a rushed swirl across the stone steps leading up to the temple gates as the city fades behind us. In any season, Kyoto is a dream, but seen in fall color, one knows their visit was perfectly timed. FIVE FAVES / KYOTO Living Zen Each footprint vanishes into the grooves of rhythmic circles, as a zen gardener pulls his broom methodically through the gravel, creating linear grooves designed to promote stillness in the viewer's mind. Deeply part of Japanese living and culture, zen gardens were first established in the 13th Century as a place for monks to meditate Buddha's teachings. Here, at the stunning Ginkaku-ji Temple , this art form is maintained daily –a practice, in itself a meditation. ___ Kyoto Through a Veil Sunlight dapples the ground, highlighting an array of colorful leaves that have quietly found their seat. A playful breeze rustles the scene, rearranging the pattern in an ongoing evolution. Kyoto, as seen through the veil of fall, is as red as apples and cherries. So different a picture than the countless white blossoms exhibited in these exact same trees just two seasons ago. A recurrent joy for the wide-eyed visitor. The glazed rooftops of the Enkouji Temple appear like steps that follow the hillside slope toward the glow of central Kyoto. Like a lantern, the town beckons the eye, even if the heart begs to stay here on this elevated plain, bathed in fall color and steeped in enlightenment. ___ Light + Space = Tranquility The essence of Japanese architectural design is minimalism, effortlessly at one with the outside landscape. Walls of rice paper panes glide between the floor and ceiling in a widened embrace of the view, while softened sunlight illuminates the room through the parchment diffusion. The outside enters like a welcome guest, framed in perfect proportion to the interior space. From the tranquil Honen-in Temple , to a bustling Blue Bottle Coffee Cafe , Kyoto is home to this timeless design practice, so comfortable in its place, as if ordained by nature. ___ Japanese Joinery Centuries before the advent of screws and metal fasteners, Japanese builders developed ways to adjoin wooden beams in the construction of buildings that would stand for generations. Intricately carved “male” ends of posts and beams are joined with geometrically, matching female ends to create load-bearing bracing. Nowhere is this engineering art form more evident than in the Anraku-ji Temple . Look up and be amazed. All done by hand, without the aid of a computer program or 3D printer! ___ Kimonos The national garment of Japan is also the most beautiful interpretation of unisex fashion. History and heritage is woven into each design, along with comfort and practicality. In Kyoto’s Gion district , history and Japanese culture literally line the streets. Hence, a haven for great kimono watching. But don’t just admire, acquire!! Vintage, bespoke and everyday options are available, which makes for a fun treasure hunt. We suggest meandering to YAYA , a little vintage boutique in Southern Higashiyama . ___ Prayer Plaques Charming house-shaped wooden plaques called Ema are layered in an orderly, shingled jumble at Saginomori-jinja Shrine and other Shinto shrines all across Kyoto. Purchase one and sit with it in your lap while studying the treetops overhead as they tickle the clouds. Think about this moment and the time before –and ahead. Put a prayer into words and scribe it onto your plaque, then fasten it amongst the others –your wish now afloat like a whisper. ___ Mochi and Matcha The squishy delight of Mochi is a true Japanese treat. A rice cake made of a short-grain rice and a dash of water, sugar, and cornstarch. The steamed rice is pounded into a paste, then formed into shapes, usually that of a bite size igloo. In Japan, it is traditionally made in a ceremony called mochitsuki . Originating in China, Matcha is a finely ground powder made with specially grown green tea leaves and is enjoyed across all of East Asia –and now, the world. These days, it is mostly produced in Japan, where one may experience its special allure at the Honen-in Temple where it is served along with a dreamily presented side of Mochi! For those who desire a fuller menu, nearby is the Green Terrace Riverside Cafe located just along the Philosopher's Walk , the renowned pedestrian path that follows a cherry tree-lined canal in Northern Higashiyama district. ___ Ryokan Genhouin At this quaint inn in Kyoto, the arrival of each new guest is denoted with the addition of two shoes joining the lineup of footwear at the front slatted-wood door. One can immediately see before entering if it’s a full house or not. No matter how many guests are in residence, this tranquil ryokan is as quiet as a sleeping cat. In each room, a ceramic vase with a single-stem flower occupies a zen niche, thoughtfully waiting to inspire contemplation. But the pièce de résistance is the onsite onsen . A renewing ritual that calls out to the visitor exploring Kyoto to return and fold into the warm water bath —wide enough to include friends! ___ Soba at Juu-go Japanese soba noodles are made with buckwheat. Brown and flat and thin like spaghetti. It’s strong in flavor and often served cold, in salads or with dipping sauces. In Kyoto, it’s also performance art at Juu-go where the kitc hen becomes theater as the chef makes and serves the noodles right before your eyes. Confused between SOBA and UDON noodles? Here’s a simple tip: SOBA has a “B”, as in Buckwheat”, or “Brown”. ___ Groundbreaking Women Centuries before Martha Graham redefined modern dance, Izumo no Okuni invented the theatrical art form of kabuki here on the dry riverbed of the Kamo River . By the mid 1600’s, Okuni's troupe became immensely popular, renowned for their performers who were often lower-class women recruited to act in her all-female theatre group. Her groundbreaking work is present today in reenactments along the parched river and in Japan’s not-to-miss Kabuki theaters. ___ Gion Calling Within the cobbled labyrinth of Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama District , all pathways seem to lead to the tall and graceful, multi-roof Hokan-ji Temple , known locally as the Yasaka Pagoda, or “Tower of Yasaka”. Inspired by a dream, it was built by the Imperial Prince Shotoku in 589, here in the storied warrens of Gion , where time stands still. ___ Yasaka Shrine The mesmerizing glow of the Yasaka Shrine at night serves as a beacon that leads to the historic Gion district . A gentle breeze rolls across the plaza, encouraging rows of lanterns to sway hypnotically, as if a spirit ran its hand along a curtain of light. ​ A tradition known as Hatsumode - the first shrine visit of the new year - invites worshipers to take home a flame from the shrine’s sacred fire, with which to cook their first meal of the new year. ___ Bamboo Garden One feels a thrilling sense of peace in seeing the midday sunlight slant through the towering bamboo like swords. A “thrilling peacefulness” may be a contradiction in terms, but such is the sense of balance at Enkouji Temple . Darkness threaded with light. Cavalier breezes stilled. Yellow challenging green. Opposites together, in peace. ___ Spirituality Allow your thoughts to drift like smoke across the landscape at Nanzenji Temple with its massive brass urn containing a mountain of sand that hosts a grove of incense sticks. Each stick lit with hopes and dreams, as it lofts a scented cloud towards the gods. At Saginomori Temple , take the thick rope in both hands and pull down hard. Your heart is heard in the ringing of the bell. ___ Kyoto Footsteps There is an inspired moment in Kyoto that’s very special. The moment when one steps through the modest doorway of an ancient temple. The mountains and trees seem to bow in greeting the visitor. Imagine centuries of footsteps that have traversed this very threshold. Yours newly added, like new links on an eternal chain. Top two images: Nanzen-ji Temple Bottom image: Manshu-in Temple ___ Back JAPAN Next

EXPRESSIVE CERAMICS While ordering coffee one morning in Venice, CA at the absolutely charming @ LittleLunchCoffee , I noticed two faces intently focused on the room. Not the barista, nor cashier, but two small ceramic pots with the faces of two girls glazed onto the clay. Sisters perhaps? Each unique, but clearly related. I bought one and proceeded to spend the next 24 hrs obsessing about returning to buy the second one to keep the pair together. I soon tracked down the ceramicist, Kim Nguyen to find out more about her work and subject matter. She told me she got into ceramics over 15 years ago in school, “jumping on and off the wheel ever since”. She initially practiced out of a local community studio in San Diego, but during the pandemic, made the jump to building a studio at home. photos by @blackslipbabes “Ceramics and making is a great source of joy and calm. It reminds me to be completely present. (And will punish me with wobbly misshapen vases if I’m not!)” The daughter of Vietnamese immigrants, her work’s inspiration (and her subjects) is “the strong women and folks in my family and life —my mother, my sister, cousins, aunties, and friends.” Whenever I look at these vases, looking back at me, I am transported to that foggy morning in Venice, when I first encountered these proud Vietnamese girls, so riveted on the day’s early activity inside Little Lunch . ​ A rotating selection of Kim’s designs is available through Home Ec store in San Diego, CA. Alternatively, folks can DM Kim directly @blackslipbabes for commissions if they want something specific. ___ Back Next

CROATIA Croatia reclines along the Adriatic like an easygoing neighbor. Just 100 nautical miles from Italy, hard-won pride resonates where not so long ago, fierce fighting shuddered the nation in a protracted battle for independence. Today its bucolic landscape and well preserved architectural heritage welcomes all with the warmth of a grandma’s embrace. CAVTAT Walk Along the Waterfront DUBROVNIK Explore a Medieval Magical Wonder ISLAND OF VIS Indulge in Timeless Charm OMIS A Treasure Tucked into Coastal Cliffs SPLIT Roman Splendor in a Modern Port City

JAPAN A land where mindfulness flows in many forms: architecture, cuisine, garden design, fashion, music, stage, packaging, transportation. Each craft thoughtfully explored and realized with exquisite simplicity. Tokyo efficiently shelters an impossibly large populous with welcoming grace. Kyoto inspires the soul and spirit with humble sophistication. Naoshima delights the eyes and mind with groundbreaking originality. Together, they are the glow of the rising sun that is Japan. KYOTO Inspiration Meets Tranquillity NAOSHIMA (Coming Soon) TOKYO A Vertical Jewel Box

HAWAII Like pearls on an elegant chain, each Hawaiian island glows with unique luster that took ages to form. 8,000 ocean miles from the US mainland, it is hard to grasp that these ruggedly lush islands are part of the United States. A state of incredible natural beauty, that rose from the sea to form its own world. A paradise that eluded discovery until Captain Cook approached its shores in 1778. In its modern incarnation, Hawaii honors its heritage and native language with “talk story” teachings, and blooms anew with the spirit of aloha. HAWAII ISLAND (Coming Soon) KAUAI The Garden Isle MAUI (Coming Soon) OAHU The Gathering Place

MONTENEGRO Where the sky shines with a swanky glow, and the beaches are steeped in casual glamour. Drive along the Adriatic coastline as it winds its way south from Dubrovnik and watch as the rolling hillsides gradually turn into terraced rooflines and patio railings that sketch the outline of modern Montenegro. Just inland from Tivat, an incredible fjord reaches deep upstream, gradually tacking southeast to the ancient village of Kotor. Standing still in time, its Romanesque charm floats like the colorful vessels anchored at its waterfront. From here, venture further south, where the turquoise Adriatic meets the salt and pepper sands of Sveti Stefan, home to the extraordinary Aman Hotel , nestled atop its own island. Quite possibly the most captivating resort location ever. KOTOR A Medieval Jewel SVETI STEFAN Islet in the Sun

LEMONY TURMERIC CAKE Turmeric has many well documented health benefits dating back centuries to its origin in South Asia. Known as the “Spice of Life”, turmeric’s list of health benefits is so long one wonders if there’s anything it can’t help! Which may explain why we can’t help loving Turmeric cake! Enjoy a slice of India, right from your oven with this simple NY Times recipe from Alison Roman. Turmeric has been used in Asia for centuries in traditional Indian and Chinese medicines. But before it was medicinal it was all about fashion. First used as dye, it spread from India to Southeast Asia following the path of Hinduism and Buddhism, hence the stunning yellow splendor of monks' robes. Today, thanks to the creativity of chefs like Alison Roman, turmeric is often combined with coconut or macadamia milk, or, in this case with lemon, blending an even brighter color into the mix. Recipe from The New York Times Yield: One 9-inch cake Ingredients Nonstick cooking spray or butter, for greasing the pan 1 ½ cups/215 grams all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon ground Turmeric 2 lemons 1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar, plus 2 tablespoons for sprinkling ¾ cup/180 milliliters sour cream or full-fat Greek yogurt, plus more for serving (optional) 2 large eggs ½ cup/115 grams unsalted butter (1 stick), melted Whipped cream (optional) * Tip: For some reason, finding a standard-size loaf pan is nearly impossible, so get as close to a 4" x 9" as you can. Either a metal or a glass pan works, but metal conducts heat more evenly. Directions Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 4-by-9-inch loaf pan (see Tip) with nonstick cooking spray or butter, and line it with parchment, leaving some overhang on both of the longer sides so you’re able to easily lift the cake out after baking. Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt and turmeric in a large bowl. Grate 2 tablespoons zest from 1 lemon into a medium bowl. Halve the zested lemon and squeeze 2 tablespoons juice into a small bowl. Cut half the remaining whole lemon into thin rounds, discarding seeds (save the other half for another use). Add 1 cup sugar to the lemon zest in the medium bowl; rub together with your fingertips until the sugar is fragrant and tinted yellow. Whisk in the sour cream, eggs and the 2 tablespoons lemon juice until well blended. Using a spatula, add the wet mixture to the flour mixture, stirring just to blend. Fold in the melted butter. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, smoothing the top. Scatter the top with the lemon slices and 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake until the top of the cake is golden brown, the edges pull away from the sides of the pan, and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. (If the lemons are getting too dark, lay a piece of foil on top to prevent burning.) Let cool before slicing. (Cake can be baked up to 5 days ahead, wrapped tightly, and stored at room temperature.) Serve with whipped cream, if desired. Back Next

NICE A sensual quality of life , matched only by its quality of light. Hence, being home to the world’s most famous Impressionist painters, lovers and dreamers. Promenade des Anglais “La Prom”, as it’s affectionately known to locals aligns with the 7 km arc of beach where France meets the Mediterranean in Nice. Well-healed Brits in the late 18th century took to wintering here and funded a paved walkway where they might comfortably “promenade” along the sea shore, hence “Promenade des Anglais”. Nowadays anyone from everywhere can appreciate La Prom, where a long walk makes time stand still. Palais de la Méditerranée is a treasured landmark along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. There’s a certain irony to constructing a grand casino in 1929, the year of the great US stock market crash. Indeed this casino on the French Côte d'Azur was built by a wealthy American. It later was designated a historic architectural landmark which saved its beloved facade from modernization. ___ A NICE Lunch on the Beach Nice, with i ts soft, seductive light drew artists such as Matisse, Chagall and Arman to its pebbled shores. Writers too. Nietzsche invested six consecutive winters in Nice, scribing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. Chekhov put the final touches on his play “Three Sisters” while living here. And then there are those who just come to hibernate under a white umbrella . Could there be anything more sublime than a lunch of ceviche and salads on the beach in the south of France? With your best friend. A handsome waiter. And French wine, of course. ___ Horizon Lines It is a line that always reads as level. Definitive and grounded, albeit a distant tumult of tides. The horizon is consistent no matter what shore we may see it from. Anywhere in the world, its reassuring balance looks the same. Not to be outdone, the sky here in Nice also brings on its game, sweeping across the steadfast sea in a dazzling glint of Côte d’Azur glamour. Spotlighting the unique and creative souls who are drawn to this line in the sand. ___ Nice. Moments. Strolling the streets of old town Nice becomes a simultaneous study of ancient and nouveau France. Contemporary life moves easily amid the old stone façades long frozen in time. Each era accommodating the other like a well coordinated stage play with diverse characters, cultures, ages and interests. ___ Eden en Nice An afternoon breeze slips through the sheer white curtains that catch shadows from the garden. The town of Nice itself is a garden. An Eden more about pears and champagne than apples. Temptation here is to stay in, when one’s momentary haven is a Belle Époque space such as this. See Airbnb link for Nice, France: “Lavish Garden Apt in Belle Epoque Listed Palace” . ___ Tête de Moine at Lavomatique Literally translated as “monk’s head”, this scrumptious fromage is spiral-grated off a small round of Alpine Swiss into a dreamy, brainy-looking flower, assembled one petal at a time into a most edible full bloom. Accompanied by the ubiquitous baguette and the essential wine du jour. Lavomatique : Address : 11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice, France Phone : +33 4 93 55 54 18 ___ A Night in Nice The moon is full and creepy beautiful as it slips over the rooftops like a thief, stealing its way into the clouds. The sky is silent and monochrome, but the town is aglow and crackling in all the colors of a holiday hearth. Pull up a chair here on a cobbled old town street and warm the night with some red wine and the spark of where tomorrow may lead. ___ SPOTLIGHT: La Fondation Maeght, Saint-Paul de Vence (16 miles north of Nice) In the late 1950’s two visionary art dealers dreamed of forming an arts collective with some of the world’s most talented painters and sculptors. You know, like building a tree house with friends. In this case, the friends were Georges Braque, Joan Miró and Alberto Giacometti. La Fondation Maeght opened in 1964, the dream child of Aimé and Marguerite Maeght crowning a wooded hillside just north of Nice with light filled galleries and colorful outdoor sculptures. Today, France’s very first private art institution stands like a creative acropolis high above the Côte d'Azur, welcoming art lovers and dreamers. ___ Back FRANCE Next

CAVTAT Walk along the waterf ront where the sea sparkles brightly between the hulls of yachts and the stemware of several Aperol Spritz. There are few places this near to perfection. Waterfront Fantasy It’s all too easy to miss this small seaport village, just south of its more famous neighbor, Dubrovnik, but once we stumbled onto it, we fell straight into its charms. So began a memorable afternoon romance with a tall and handsome Aperol Spritz, or was it two? We asked our waitress if she knew of any nearby hotels and she pointed to an old inn a few steps away. Hotel Bracka Perla Supetar . We got the last room and cancelled our hotel in Dubrovnik. Then walked around the waterfront in an extended daze amid the dusk light, at one point crossing paths with a flag waving wedding party promenading to the church. ___ SPOTLIGHT: Konoba Koraceva Kuca (11 miles south of Cavtat) An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a in Gruda serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back CROATIA Next