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PORTO Youthful spirit meets an ancient past in this picturesque Portuguese city. Romanced by the Douro river’s embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. FIVE FAVES / PORTO City of Bridges A most appropriate moniker, as visitors will quickly discover, the two sides of Porto are laced together with bridges. One bridge is seemingly from the future, and right next to it, a Victorian era crossing leaps and swoons over the water. Designed as clifftop crossings, they ironically draw just as many passerby down into their shadows at the river’s edge. The most famous is the Dom Luis I bridge, a steel lacing that forms the backdrop of Porto. ___ Architectural Expressionism Arches, swirls, flower-petal patterns, all part of the whimsy elegance of Porto’s many architectural styles. So many floral and geometric motifs on incomprehensibly expansive tile mosaics and friezes, but no heroes are depicted. Why? Because the Moors held true to Islamic law and avoided portraying false icons. But there is no shortage of expressive forms in the wide variety of architectural vision that is Porto. ___ Perfect Perch The Portuguese have yet to meet a rooftop they don’t like. A table with a view is a Porto pleasure, even as a cat performs a high wire act along the edge. With a flying leap, he darts between the stylish boots of our waitress as she’s refilling our glasses while translating the menu. Afterwards there’s Parque dos Clerigos to stretch out in under the stars, listen to music and maybe think about tomorrow. Plans that may include visiting the Livraria Lello bookstore , (inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts) directly across from the park. (But only if there’s no line, which is quite unlikely). ___ Sunset Extraordinaire The view from the high ground of Jardim de Morro at sundown is an image that never leaves one’s heart. The park is terraced with curving concrete benches formed to the contour of the hillside, hosting the wise few who leave the bustle of the old town to cross the Rua General Torres bridge for this sublime vista. Maybe taking a slight detour to pick up some wine and cheese to enhance the moment at Dourum Restaurante just below the bridge on the quiet south waterfront. ___ Cliffside Thrill Ride Not for the faint of heart, (but worth it for the thrill –and the view) descending the cliff aboard the Funicular dos Guindais cable car is a Porto must. After strolling the high bridges across the river, it's the fastest and most fun way to reach the riverfront promenade. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next

ABOUT As a creative director for travel and hospitality brands, I’m often asked for recommendations. An inveterate curator at heart, I always send a short-but-sweet list of favorite sights, shops, restaurants and other delights. Few travelers these days have time to navigate complete visitor guides, but we do want to know what not to miss. I often hear that my tips “made their trip,” so I thought it might be fun to share this love for destinations with a wider audience of wanderers. Sharing the personality of places, in photographs, short musings and quick tips. HITHER & W ANDER CONSULTING In addition, I provide creative consulting for hospitality, travel and lifestyle brand s. — Haines Wilkerson Founder Image by @iarjonilla / @waileabeachresort

TASTE Life is what’s happening while you’re busy making travel plans. Live it authentically in the kitchen with creative RECIPES from around the world. CAMPARI-ROSÉ SPRITZ JASMINE BLOOM TEA LEMONY TURMERIC CAKE MATZAH BALL PHO MEYER LEMON TART MOROCCAN ORANGES SPARKLING YUZU GIMLET SPICED FEZPRESSO THE BEAUTY OF BORSCHT

HOLLYWOOD Where dreams rise like champagne bubbles ...or languish like shipwrecks. Either way, the allure of this industry town remains irresistible and its imprint indelible. Paramount Studios Tour Some movie studio tours are like amusement park rides, complete with thrills and spills, but the Paramount Studios Tour is a true backstage pass. This walking-and-golf-cart exploration quickly confirms Paramount as the original home of movie magic, (proudly noting it’s the only major studio with a view of the HOLLYWOOD sign). Right out of the gate, (literally) we’re immersed in film history, as we walk through the very Bronson gate where Norma Desmond, famously declared “without me there wouldn’t be any Paramount Studios!” in the film noir classic “Sunset Boulevard”. The New York backlot is so convincing one might crave a bagel, despite the surreal backdrop of palm trees. Peering into the cavernous darkness of Stage 18 one learns that Alfred Hitchcock poked the floorboards with his walking stick and demanded they be removed to accommodate the tall set for “Rear Window” with its courtyard apartments built to scale. Then there’s Stage 1, where Orson Welles shot “Citizen Kane”. The VIP tour takes you inside the archive vault for a deeper dive into cinematic lore. The grand finale is the fantastic Paramount prop room filled with curiosities one might expect to find in Tim Burton’s garage. ___ Yo-Yo Ma at the Hollywood Bowl Like a clam shell presenting its pearl, the Hollywood Bowl is a treasured gift for great performers and fortunate audiences. Opened in 1929, the concentric arches rising over its iconic stage host the LA Philharmonic’s summer performances as well as a steady stream of stars shining under the evening sky. Here, Cellist Yo-Yo Ma single-handedly captivated the crowd playing the Bach Suites, straight through from memory. A composition written 300 years ago, conjured to life in this stellar setting by a modern master. ___ Once Upon A Time In Hollywood… The oldest restaurant in LA, The Musso & Frank Grill —since 1919 remains largely unchanged after 100+ years, yet is more popular today than ever. Many of the adored staff are “lifer’s”, one of whom, Alonso recently retired after 48 years. It is said that Charlie Chaplin would challenge Douglas Fairbanks to a horse race down Hollywood Boulevard, and the winner had to pick up the tab at Musso’s. Ah, the price of victory! To quote Michael Callahan’s book chronicling its history, “Musso’s became the clubhouse for the most peculiar band of misfits that rotated through Hollywood’s golden age –writers.” F. Scott Fitzgerald proofread his novels at a booth at Musso’s. William Faulkner met his mistress of 20 years here. Raymond Chandler wrote chapters of “The Big Sleep” while sipping cocktails in the Back Room. T.S. Elliot, Aldous Huxley, John Steinbeck and Dorothy Parker all called the Musso’s bar “home” while Anaïs Nin penned some of her diaries on that hallowed wood. Humphrey Bogart stood mesmerized by Lauren Bacall at the bar, and, I personally witnessed a similar swoon as Madonna studied Sean Penn’s eyes in a booth to themselves. TIP: always look into every booth as you’re escorted to your table. Chances are you’ll encounter some very famous faces only slightly hidden behind martini glasses. ___ Cinespia at Hollywood Forever Classic films come back to life under the stars at Hollywood Forever cemetery. Cinespia offers summer weekend screenings, al fresco on the vast Fairbanks Lawn, so named for the adjacent crypt housing both Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. and Jr. An eclectic range of films are projected onto the west wall of the Cathedral Mausoleum, which houses the crypt of Rudolph Valentino among many other notables of celluloid lore. A few steps away, Johnny Ramone plays on from atop his crypt. Bring a picnic blanket and all the trimmings, but come early to stake out your plot! ___ Hollyhock House “With a radical client like Miss Barnsdall, a site like Olive Hill, a climate like California, an architect head on for freedom, something had to happen…” —Frank Lloyd Wright Architect, Frank Lloyd Wright channeled the magnificence of Mayan temples in this 1921 home that transcended all convention for residential design. Rising just above the sparkle of Hollywood, Hollyhock House crowns Olive Hill, now known as Barnsdall Art Park , a gathering place for talent of all ages, origins and interests. Founded by the estate of Aline Barnsdall, the original owner of the home, an eccentric eastern aristocrat with a penchant for the arts. ___ Rooftop Hollywood Several new hotels line the boulevards like Oscars with flat tops. Each one crowned with a jewel sized pool. Up here, the sky becomes a silver screen as the ocean air pulls across. Drinks float on the tattooed arms of waiters who silently recite lines for tomorrow’s audition. Shadows that lounged all day under yellow umbrellas vanish as the sun finds its seat. Thompson Hotel Hollywood The Godfrey Hotel Hollywood Dream Hotels The Everly Hollywood W Hollywood ___ Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel Pool Aqua water quivers like David Hockney brush strokes, mirroring the actual swirls he famously painted on the bottom of the pool here in 1988 with a paintbrush tied to a broom handle. An Olympic sized rectangle that stretches out like swimmer’s legs across a mid century courtyard. The Roosevelt pool deck has seen it all. Debauchery, dreams. deals and divas. Bikinis, mojitos, burgers and fries, all together under the brilliant beige sky, where one’s afternoon plans drift away like pool floats. ___ Hiking Hollywood Griffith Park is the largest municipal park in the US. 50 miles of trails wiggle through folding hillsides that form a diorama of the Southern California landscape, —right in the middle of the city. Here, LA’s best hikes lead to the top of Mt Hollywood where sweeping views to the west crescendo at the edge of the sea. A silver sheen of ocean air softens the horizon, while, off to the east, downtown LA rises like Oz. Four times the size of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and five times the size of Central Park in New York, Griffith Park boasts 4300+ acres of rugged, (and often star studded) scenery. ___ Hollywood Mixology A whisper of Vermouth meets the mist of lemon, consummating a classic Hollywood relationship. There’s something about stemware that puts dreams on a pedestal while elevating the moment. Similarly, a ring of sea salt bestows upon a proper Paloma its well deserved crown. The night is young and well served, under the stars at Superba on Sunset, or at the bar at The Musso & Frank Grill or embraced in a sumptuous booth at Mes Amis where your table is set like a movie scene at Thompson Hotel Hollywood . ___ Vetting Hollywood Bette Davis famously quipped when asked what’s the best way for an aspiring actress to get into Hollywood?, “Take Fountain”. Indeed Fountain Ave is the quickest route, but I take Bette’s advice a little further north to “Franklin Ave.”, an east/west thoroughfare stretched like a guitar string across Hollywood. Along the way is Franklin Village, a fun few blocks studded with eclectic gems like Upright Citizens Brigade comedy club, Counterpoint Records & Books , and the essential Daily Planet Newsstand . Park your Corvette in front of Birds Hollywood , a favorite roost for rotisserie chicken lovers since 1994, where one’s pet may also enjoy a proper meal of pulled chicken served in a paper cup. Finally, indulge the “Last Cappuccino before the 101” at Clark Street Diner the classic Hollywood diner, immortalized in the 1996 film "Swingers", just a pancake throw from the almost-hidden Hollywood Freeway on-ramps at Argyle Ave. ___ Ephemeral Glamour Hollywood fame is like makeup. Stunning, and fleeting. Stars shine, until they fade. Some are reborn as lookalikes. Dead stars walking. The boulevard is graced with their likenesses. Painted. Glowing. Some in life-size, some supersized. Some are actually alive, even as they shoot themselves in the foot protesting an improper omelette. Yet still they shine. ___ The HOLLYWOOD Sign In 1923, Los Angeles Times publisher Harry Chandler spent $21,000. to erect a billboard for his hillside real estate development dubbed HOLLYWOODLAND. In contrast with Chandler’s lofty vision, down-on-her-luck actress, Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from atop the “H” in 1932. A decade later, the letters “LAND” met their own demise as the development went belly up, leaving “HOLLYWOOD” spelling out neglect and decay. In 1977, Hugh Hefner hosted a gala fundraiser at the Playboy Mansion, where the Sign letters were auctioned off, one at a time for $27,700 each. Glam-rocker Alice Cooper “bought” an “O” (in honor of Groucho Marx). Gene Autry got an “L” and Andy Williams snatched up the “W.” Thanks to these sponsors, a brand new sign was born in 1978, taking its place in history as the world’s most famous outdoor signage. ___ Hollywood Shadow Project A captivating series of seven installations located throughout the production area of Hollywood projected iconic movie scenes and titles in a whole new light. Late afternoon sunlight passes through these sculptures that resemble old billboards, casting silhouetted shadows onto neighboring buildings at movie screen sizes. Like so much about Hollywood, the fantasy is fleeting, with most of the 2001 sculptures now having been taken down in the process of modernizing tinseltown. Cameron McNall , Architect ___ Back CALIFORNIA Next

1 Jardim de Morro at Sundown This view never leaves one's heart, just across the Rua General Torres bridge from the historic center. Make it a picnic with wine and cheese from Dourum Restaurante . JARDIM DE MORRO 2 Portuguese Centre of Photography Formerly a prison in which children were among the incarcerated, this remarkable space now offers vision and light, where there was once only darkness. CENTRO PORTUGUÊS DE FOTOGRAFIA 3 Armazém Luxury Housing A 19th century iron warehouse in Porto’s historic centre now houses the Armazém hotel. Just 9 dreamy and inventive guest rooms and 3 apartments comprise this unique property near to the Ribeira district. ARMAZÉM LUXURY HOUSING 4 Funicular dos Guindais This heart-stopping railway-meets-rollercoaster makes a very vertical descent on its express route from the heights of Centro Historico down to the waterfront. FUNICULAR DOS GUINDAIS 5 Clérigos Tower, and Parque dos Clérigos The winding climb inside the sinewy tower is rewarded with a stunning 360 view of Porto. Directly below is the delightful lounge-meets-city-park, Parque dos Clérigos. TORRE DOS CLÉRIGOS Back PORTO Next

CURIO COLLECTION(S) A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve a tiki drink. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions in tiki mugs. The fruit of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Or display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection. Check out the best rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Years of traveling has led to an eclectic cache of curios that made it home despite the distance and luggage limitations. How to display them can also present challenges. I suggest groupings of like objects, be they paint-by-number masterpieces, souvenir glassware, or simple tchotchkes. Odd-number pairings generally work best, say three like items of varying size, grouped together on a shelf or table. And consider lighting. IKEA sells inexpensive gooseneck clip lights in several finishes that make surprisingly effective frame lights for art. ___ LIVING Next

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LISBON Explore the wonder of this worldy city whose welcoming expanse of the Rio Tejo celebrates the explorers who launched their wooden galleons from this very spot in the 15th century in search of the New World. FIVE FAVES / LISBON The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology MAAT seems to have just landed like a graceful bird upon this modern gateway to the city. The subjects of art, architecture and technology come together all under one incredible roof. From atop, one beholds a 180 degree view of the river, while just below, an arc of terraced steps offer another perfect perch. ___ Belém Tower All roads (and tiled sidewalks) lead to the the river that launched a thousand dreams. Belém Tower, or the Tower of St. Vincent is a 15th century fortification that symbolized the Portuguese maritime accomplishments of the 15th century. The tower stands at the mouth of the Tagus river, initially as a defense garrison and now as the ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. ___ The Cultural Centre of Belém Across Avenida de Brasília from the fabled Lisbon waterfront, one may discover a new world of contemporary art and innovative architecture. Remarkable exhibits and music await an afternoon’s indulgence at the aforementioned MAAT and, just across the highway, at The Cultural Centre of Belém . This large building houses The Berardo Collection Museum which features various indoor and outdoor galleries exhibiting impressive collections (and the occasional al fresco film screening). Open every day for art lovers —and true loves. Rejuvenate alfresco, at Este Oeste Pizza and Sushi , soaking up its sunny rooftop terrace, reasonably priced delights —and some good rosé! ___ Cross Over, Children! While Lisbon lazes about on its beautiful north shore of the Rio Tejo, a short ferry ride across to the Almada side delivers an even more laid back vibe. What looks like an abandoned waterfront, lined with the remains of old buildings, is surprisingly full of life, delightfully lubricated with Vino Verde’s and serving up unforgettable alfresco dining and sensational views. Best to make a reservation because this quaint discovery hidden away on the ancient docks is actually quite popular, Ristorante Ponto Final and Atira-te ao Rio Restaurante. ___ Pastéis de Nata One of the true pleasures of travel is discovering local edible wonders such as Portugal’s own Pastéis de Nata. Tiny custard tarts that all too easily fit between the thumb and forefinger, enjoyed with an espresso. The much heralded home of these traditional treats is Pastéis de Belém , with its centuries-old secret recipe attributed to kitchen-wizard monks from the Jerónimos Monastery. Understated from the outside, the bakery is a haven of delight on the inside, —indeed a metaphor for their famous bite size treasures. ___ Views from Above The highest point in Lisbon welcomes you not with a herald of bells but with a ringing view of the city. Established in the 1st century BC, the fortification sits atop a steep hillside, crowning the cobbled twists and turns of the Alfama neighborhood. Lisbon is a collection of views awarded to those whose knees can endure the ascent and/or descent. The bell tower of Castelo de Sao Jorge is one such reward, atop the highest hill in the city. Well worth the climb, the fortress defends a 360 panorama of the city and its sparkling River Tagus. One may avoid the multitude of steps, reaching it via taxi or transit, but where’s the sport in that? A fun way to cheat Lisbon’s relentless climbs is the Santa Justa Lift , the Eiffel Tower of Lisbon, (in fact, designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel) was built in 1901. Rising seven stories straight up, its chief purpose is augmenting hundreds upon hundreds of steps to the top of the commanding hill above the Baixa district. ___ Paved in Art Portugal’s ultimate, treasured tradition is tile. Mosaics are everywhere, shimmering on walls and inlaid into sidewalks, illustrating the history and spirit of this stunning country. ___ Stairway to Heaven Zigzag your way up numerous M.C. Escher-esque staircases, or simply elevate yourself aboard the aforementioned Santa Justa Lift to alight upon one of the coolest sights ever, the Carmo Archaeological Museum . A former convent built in 1389, where the heavens are truly part of the place, due to the roof having collapsed in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Now a stunning indoor/outdoor museum with exhibits related to the history of Lisbon from pre-historic times through to the Middle Ages. The gift shop, with its tall windows looking across the city to the Castle is, in itself, worth the trek. ___ Reaching New Heights As the sun goes down, the music comes up on rooftops all across town. Some packed with revealers dancing with both hands signaling the night sky, some quaint (and comparatively quiet) with a half dozen wealthy winos raising toasts. And, on some hilltop terrace, a lone guitarist frets in Portuguese about a girl who is now likely up on the first rooftop. But it’s not all about imbibing and talking rubbish on rooftops. The night also invites the more bookish to indulge in words of the wise. Ler Devagar Bookstore , with shelves stacked to the high ceiling glows from the inside as it beckons passerby to open a new chapter. ___ Brilliance of the Night Tucked away behind the Time Out Market is a little wine-bar-meets-Jazz-den, Cafe Tati , that pumps up the dusk with muscular musicianship that puts the window panes to the test. But the sweetness of the band’s improvised song tingles our wine glasses with the redemption of a sound bath. ___ Inclined to Enjoy The sidewalks of Lisbon dutifully conform to the city’s hillsides, transforming a level (tile-lined) avenue into a challenging set of stairs, ever upward. Lisbon is not for the faint-of-knee, or ankle. But for those not hampered by lower-extremity limitations, it’s an incredibly beautiful city with rewarding views and points of interest at each summit. Count on stairs being part of any walking tour and for that reason, consider visiting Lisbon in the spring or fall because who wants to traverse stairs under an unrelenting summer sun, or the bracing chill of winter? Regardless of the weather, one can always take the yellow trolley and save one’s knees for another day of exploring this romantic city, home to the very term “explorer”, as the launching port for the Age of Discoveries. Often, what we seek in travel is ascent for the mind and soul. In Lisbon, it's literal. Climb to reach a restaurant, a bar, a club. Climb your way to the pinnacle of Lisboa's Boheme groove. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next

ALGARVE Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next

Painted plate, Sicily Painted bowls by Hal Haines PAINTERLY PLATES A well-traveled friend of mine returned from a deep and dreamy dive into Sicily with the gift of a lovely hand-painted plate. It quickly became a most-favored kitchen item, its decorative strokes dancing around fruit of complimentary colors. I fell under its Sicilian spell and soon needed more. Little did I know (but would soon discover), a young British potter would spin my world around with his whimsical ceramic designs. Allow me to introduce you to Hal Haines . Hal has traveled the world photographing people and places, with a keen interest in visual storytelling. This has influenced his illustrative approach to surface decoration and the themes he explores within his ceramic pieces. Hal Haines in his studio Painted wood dish by Hal Haines Inspired by London’s V&A ceramics gallery, Sicilian antique shops and his Grandma Ann’s Sunday lunch tableware, Hal juxtaposes classical silhouettes with contemporary subject matters and decorative techniques. His work references film, history and the natural environment. In designs for Paul Smith, he created a series of platters and lampshades depicting far-flung, lesser-known fairytales. Studies of seasonal changes on an English flower farm is the inspiration for a set of ceramic platters titled Flower Farm for London-based concept store Couverture & The Garbstore . ___ Back Next