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LIGHTHEARTED DESIGN La Belle et la Bête, the classic 1946 French romantic fantasy film by poet, artist and filmmaker Jean Cocteau features an illuminating scene with hallway “hand” sconces. Actual hands holding candelabras light the actress’s uncertain path in this dreamy interpretation of Beauty and the Beast. Nicky/Kehoe elevates the story further with this brass beauty, mysterious yet whimsical in the spirit of Cocteau. Picture one gracing an entryway or perhaps two of them flanking a mirror? (Available in both Right and Left hand). I say shake on it! ___ La Belle et la Bête, 1946 film by Jean Cocteau Back Next

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MOROCCAN ORANGES The winter light slips through the clouds caressing the Atlas Mountains just outside Marrakesh. Our friend, designer Debby Dean, pours a mint tea as we wrap ourselves in the unexpected sunlight. But the most brilliant surprise under our Stone Desert tent is the sliced oranges dusted with cinnamon. Who knew how a sprinkle of this common spice could tame the tangiest orange, turning each crescent into confection. A simple Moroccan pleasure discovered while traveling makes one feel at home in the world. And now, back in our own home, we always reach for the ground cinnamon when slicing an orange. We use cinnamon from Saigon . ___ Back Next

SPLIT Roman splendor in a modern port city greets seafarers arriving with stories and suntans from the nearby Dalmatian Islands. Palace Coup In this bustling port city, modern automobiles and streamlined ships meet Roman antiquity. “Soldiers” in red and gold regalia enliven the piazzas along the waterfront where the skyline is punctuated with ancient columns like in Rome. The city was originally an ancient palace built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Half for him and half for an army garrison. The “palace” forms about half the old town of Split. ___ Back CROATIA Next

KAUAI The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty. FIVE FAVES / KAUAI Kokee State Park 45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliff sides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout . ___ Limahuli Garden and Preserve A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised. ___ Hanalei Bay The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight. ___ Hanalei Pier It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow. ___ 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel . ___ Yellowfish Trading Company In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm. ___ Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves. Kayak Hanalei ___ Hawaiian Tiki As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity. Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center ___ Island Farmers Markets Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei. ___ Anini Beach Light flickers behind craggy tree branches like Balinese puppetry. Along this magical 2 1/2 mile stretch of sand, the water appears calm but it can be swift and strong, especially out near the reef as it shreds the Pacific. A barrier so effective it can turn the tide into a mirror. Daily theatrics that have played for centuries here on Kauai, an island staged at the furthest distance from any mainland. ___ Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.) Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market , who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish! ___ Allerton Garden Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off. About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars. Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden . Guided tours by reservation. ___ Hanapepe Swinging Bridge Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”. ___ Waimea Plantation Cottages Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes. Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm. ___ Kilauea Lighthouse Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge. ___ Lumahai Beach As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf. Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach . ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of the islands for your world at home. Tiki Collectables A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com . Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home. ___ Back HAWAII Next

BRITTANY Mystical and mythical , this rolling landscape reaches the roiling sea where history reigns with steadfast pride. The architecture of ancient times fully at home in the present. Mont Saint-Michel One may spot this soaring pinnacle on the horizon well before reaching the sea that surrounds it at high tide. We first saw it rising above the inland corn fields, its spires reaching up as if to touch the last cloud of a clearing storm. Inside its fortress walls a tiny medieval town terraces upward to the Abbey that crowns the island like a tiara. The inspiration to build a cathedral in such a perilous place, atop a remote rock formation off the Normandy coast, came to Bishop Saint-Aubert in a recurrent dream in 708 AD, eventually realized in all its rustic majesty. We stayed the night on the island and witnessed the evening tide swallow up the vast sandbar below, along with the day’s messages etched by visitors. By sunrise, the sea had pulled back, revealing a blank slate ready for more sand scribes. The ancient stone walls warming now as the morning shadows retreat. ___ “All The Light We Cannot See” in St. Malo "Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever." —from the novel, “All The Light We Cannot See” by Anthony Doerr, which takes place during the Nazi occupation of France, featuring a young blind girl, who flees war torn Paris to shelter with her uncle in St. Malo. This walled Medieval city on the northern shore of Brittany has endured loss beyond measure, but stands as a symbol of resilience. Bombed beyond recognition during World War II, it rose again to crown the coastline with slender spires, scalloped rooftops and fierce ramparts, all of which now house shops, restaurants and boulangeries, inviting a steady stream of curious visitors. ___ Night and Day in Dinan Rain-slicked cobblestones reflect the warm windows and lanterns of another age, paving a silver night in gold. In any light, Dinan is a hidden treasure in northwestern France, just upstream from St. Malo, at a bend on the Rance river. Incredible to think that this narrow waterfront was once a major port when trading vessels from England and Holland were compact-sized. By the 13th century, as ships grew larger, St Malo’s wide port was developed to take on the job —and the goods. Meanwhile, Dinan grew up gracefully behind stone fortifications, protecting her half-timbered Brittany beauty for future generations, like ours. The sun forces through a persistent rain as one mythical god tries to outdo the other, neither taking into account how easily a rainbow could steal their show. Nonetheless, the exchange continues, presenting village scenes of Dinan in contrasts of squinting brilliance and dampened shadows. Like a watercolor in progress, crisp edges of shops and churches meet the blurred wash of medieval alleyways, forming the image of a place stilled in time. ___ Taden Day Dream The town of Taden is so soft spoken on the map that one might miss it entirely if it weren’t for a dramatic widening of the Rance river at the foot of the village. A landmark easily mistaken for a lake, its calm, mirrored water reaches across the landscape beckoning boaters, kayakers, hikers and day dreamers. ___ Menhir (Stone) of Saint Samson Rising eight phallic meters above nondescript farmland is a granite Stonehenge-like loner, pitched at a 42 degree angle, its four sides aligned to the points of the compass. The nearest source of granite is 4km away, which means a lot of prehistoric muscle was employed to get it here. Archeologists surmise that this “menhir” marked the furthest point inland where the (then) highest tide would reach. Legend has it that if anyone pulls the stone out, seawater will come bubbling up and inundate all of France in a biblical-size flood. Best to look, but not pull! ___ Parc du Thabor, Rennes Rennes, the capital city of Brittany in northwestern France is a sunny college town with a perfect park at its center. The graceful rambles of Parc du Thabor trace the urban hillside, rendering each season into a changing exhibit of color, texture and form. This heart of Bretagne also serves as the main depot for the TGV high speed rail from Paris. >>All aboard! ___ Pointe du Grouin All roads in Britanny eventually reach a quaint town or a sweeping seashore. Both serve great food! At the craggy, end-of-the-earth looking Pointe de Grouin, the sea provides an alfresco bounty that brings out the locals as well as tourists. They depart united in delirious bliss, with some overachievers suffering a temporary food coma and/or sunstroke. But worth it! ___ Back FRANCE Next

1 Rodin Museum The studio, home and garden of sculptor and national treasure, August Rodin is a living inspiration. Not to mention the excellent cafe and incredible sculptures amid the landscape. MUSEÉ RODIN 2 Crêpes Halfway up one's pilgrimage to Sacré Coeur, there's a little hole in the wall crêperie named Rozell Café that folds paper-thin buckwheat pancakes into edible origami. ROZELL CAFÉ 3 Bourse Pinault Collection Formerly the Paris Stock Exchange, Japanese visionary architect Tadao Ando has reimagined this financial palace into a brilliant and enthralling art exhibit space. PINAULT COLLECTION 4 Le Pigalle Hotel A classic Parisian setting set to a new groove. Each room is curated with a superb collection of vinyl, and a vintage record player featuring some of the best french jazz ever heard, —matched by a great selection of books within reach of your pillow. At night, the concierge is a DJ. By morning, the lobby returns to a calm mix of fresh croissants and juices riffing with the sunlight which slips in incognito. LE PIGALLE HOTEL 5 Sunsets at the Pompidou Center Escalators snake up the façade of Paris' groundbreaking modern museum as the sun slips away and the City of Light switches on. Follow that line to Georges for happy hour. CENTRE POMPIDOU Back PARIS Next

SPOTLIGHT / The Fresh Princes of Provence. For those of us who dream of chucking reality and moving to Provence, here is a lovely living example: @teamdavide . This fabulous couple recently took on a new life in a classic two-level French farmhouse, where the original farmers lived upstairs and the livestock called the ground floor home. Thanks to the vision and talent of Dave & David, both floors are now reimagined in thoughtful, casual elegance, along with 22 formerly neglected acres that are now home to an exclusive Domaine du Chêne Vert olive oil and a lot of love. Back FRANCE Next

1 The Okura Hotel Lobby This triumph of Japanese mid-century design, recently lost to demolition was recreated in a new high rise patterned after the original hotel. A project overseen by the son of the original architect, Yoshiro Taniguchi. THE OKURA HOTEL LOBBY 2 Bookstores Grand spaces with shelves vaulting upward to the sky, or tiny coves of lovingly curated literature. Featured: Ginza Tsutaya Books TOKYO BOOKSTORES 3 Main Bar Brilliant A MadMen setting perfectly preserved inside an otherwise unremarkable hotel. Crisp cocktails crafted with artisanal precision by buttoned-down bartenders straight out of a Stanley Kubrick film. MAIN BAR BRILLIANT 4 Udatsu Sushi Gorgeous dinner served on ceramics by J enny Sh araf (too fun and too talented) — per the ever fabulous David Lee Davis . UDATSU SUSHI 5 Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center This wonderful shop-lined area of Old Tokyo is now anchored with a fantastic modern wood facade visitors center. Inside the staff is incredibly helpful, including hand-drawn maps to vintage kimono boutiques and Japanese vinyl stores. ASAKUSA CULTURE CENTER Back TOKYO Next

SPICED FEZ PRESSO A beautiful thing about espresso is its brevity. In Rome, one stands at a café “bar” just long enough to down one in three sips or less from a simple white ceramic cup smaller than an egg. On the other hand, sipping from a hand-glazed Moroccan cup (normally used for tea) purchased in the Medina markets of Fez adds a certain romance to a macchiato nestled between one’s fingertips. Recipe from Spruce Eats Yield: 8 se rvings Ingredients 1/2 cup coffee beans, or espresso beans 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 to 2 whole cloves 3 to 4 cardamom pods 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger, optional 1/4 teaspoon freshly black pepper, optional Granulated sugar for serving, optional Hot milk, for serving, optional Directions 1. Gather the ingredients. 2. Place all ingredients into a coffee grinder and process. 3. The spiced coffee is best used immediately. If you don't need all of it, store the spiced ground coffee in a light-proof, airtight container. 4. Use the spiced ground coffee, 1 to 2 tablespoons of the mixture per serving. Note: Ground spices may clog the filter basket in electric espresso makers, so other brewing methods are preferred, such as a French press, pour over, or drip coffee machine. 5. Serve the spiced coffee black, or with sugar and hot milk as desired. ​ Back Next