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TOKYO Like a vertical jewel box, Tokyo dazzles at every angle. Blinking red marker lights define the height and width of all tall buildings for aircraft, giving the skyline a strange visual continuity despite the variety of architectural styles and sizes. FIVE FAVES / TOKYO Shibuya Shuffle The Tokyo cityscape at street level can be impossibly frenetic, even comical in time-lapse, but in contrast to the insane Shibuya crossing, many neighborhoods such as Shinjuku take on a more personal scale and easy-going feel. ___ Tsutaya Books, Ginza Crowning the 6th floor of the Ginza Six shopping center is the remarkable Tsutaya Bookshop . Its skylit atrium illuminates the mind and heart the way a good book does. Art books are presented in an exhilarating space, blending beauty with inspiration. –and a favorite Tokyo photo op. ___ Asakusa Culture and Information Center A tourist bureau so beautifully designed that it itself is a sightseeing attraction! This towering latticework of timber and glass, designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is both modest and bold in its design, looking like a stack of wooden buildings from the neighborhood casually piled atop one another. An eclectic monolith that playfully looms over the stunning Sensoji Temple and the charming Asakusa district. ___ d-47 Museum A Japan-themed space exhibiting the designs, products and creative individuality of the island nation's 47 prefectures. Presented on 47 tables, each display focuses on the unique regional artistry and local culture. The namesake d-Department stores and online shops are equally inspiring. ___ Photo by Daici Ano Windows on Ginza Ginza, which means “Place of Silver” has been the main commercial district of Tokyo since the early 17th century, and that still stands today, –literally. The height of wealth here is matched only by its architecture. Timeless luxury brands such as Mikimoto, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes, among others flaunt new gleaming facades, each as gorgeous and distinctive as the wares inside. Mikimoto Ginza 2-chome building Designed by Toyo Ito & Associates, the undersea window shapes appear random but each is precisely sized and positioned to lend structural support, allowing the interior to be column-free. Louis Vuitton / Ginza Wrapped in an undulating glaze of pearlescent glass that references the nearby Tokyo bay, this graceful design is the work of Jun Aoki & Associates with flowing interiors created by Peter Marino. Private Architectural Tour of Ginza ___ Muji Ah, the little heart flutter that happens when one enters a Muji store. Here in Tokyo, this flagship in Ginza really gets the blood pumping with an expanded array of retail, plus an art exhibit space, an irresistible bakery and a Muji hotel to top it all off. Refined design at affordable prices. Shop, sleep, eat and enjoy. ___ The Okura Hotel A tale almost as lovely as the design itself, the Okura Hotel, a masterpiece of Japanese modernism is a triumph of father and son architects, working decades apart. The hotel’s original balance of light and form was the vision of Yoshiro Taniguchi in 1960. After years of neglect, a thoughtful and comprehensive restoration was overseen by his son, Yoshio Taniguchi. Now, in all its modern and airy grace, it appears as though time has stood still since opening day in May, 1962. ___ Kabukiza Theater In 1629, a law was passed in Japan that, to this day has kept women actors from the Kabuki stage, yet there are many female roles in the centuries-old tales portrayed. Instead, male actors train for years to become “onnagata”, crafting an astonishing performance as women. Not so much an imitation of women, but an embodiment of a special artistic convention unique to Kabuki. Another true attribute of Kabuki is “mie”, where a strong pose is struck in “stop-motion” poses, accompanied by loud wooden clapper beats. Not meant to be realistic, this over-the-top tableau freezes a powerful picture of the emotion or conflict. Amazing to watch and to think that it’s been performed this way for centuries, yet continuously adapting to modern times. Including the Kabukiza Theater itself, reimagined by architect Kengo Kuma in 2013. A design that honors tradition, while providing a stage for the future of this art form. ___ Photo by David Davis Photo by Udatsu Sushi Udatsu Sushi “A space that is not just about sushi, but also a place representative of the city of Tokyo; where people from diverse backgrounds can interact and deepen their mutual understanding of each other.” —Chef/owner, Hisashi Udatsu The son of a butcher and next-door neighbor to his hometown’s only sushi restaurant, Hisashi’s young eyes witnessed daily the artistry of Japanese culinary traditions. By age 14, he informed his friends that he will be a chef. Today, Hisashi sets a humble table where storied meals are masterfully staged on dreamy Jenny Sharaf ceramics. ___ Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku A zen stillness is palpable in this simple but remarkable high rise hotel in Shinjuku. Materials that one would expect in a craftsman home or a temple appear natural in this modern space. An interior path of black slate leads to the spa elevator that escorts guests to the rooftop onsen. A breathtaking spa experience, with its open-air views of Tokyo twinkling under the stars. One’s focus softens in the rising steam of the onsen pool sheltered from any breezes 18 floors above the city. Later, float down a few floors, where one’s bed awaits in the form and feel of a cloud. ___ Raising the Bar (and lowering it) Suntory Lounge Eagle, (top image) a Tokyo classic since the early ‘90’s, this sunken highball bar features a grand staircase descending from street level, fit for a swooning diva’s entrance. Escape the strobing LED night and slip into a chandelier-lit sanctuary where the shaking of chilled Japanese vodka sets the rhythm for conversation and people watching. Main Bar Brilliant (bottom two images) is a swank hideaway in plain sight at the Keio Plaza Hotel in the middle of Shinjuku. If the 1970’s Johnny Carson set had included a bar, it might have looked like this. A modernist grid of brick and wood lines the long, low-slung bar, while round swivel chairs populate the space like orange planets. Tuxedoed bartenders construct perfect cocktails with precision, their surreal presence vaguely familiar, perhaps from a Stanley Kubrick film. ___ Photo by David Davis Shinjuku Golden Gai A tangle of six narrow alleys shingled in a cacophony of neon signs leads to tiny shanty bars with seating for a lucky few. Off each alley are even narrower passageways, barely wide enough for a single person to win their way through. But so worth it! 200+ little bars, clubs and eateries, all squeezed into a maze of unexpected delights. Be respectful with your camera. Taking pictures without permission is frowned upon and could lose you that coveted bar stool. ___ INSPIRATION : A touch of Japan for your world at home. Sparkling Yuzu Gimlet When in Japan, on the winter solstice, consider bathing in yuzu, as is the custom dating back to the early 18th century. But at home, there’s the Yuzu Gimlet, sparking like moonlight in your glass. Originally from central China and Tibet, Yuzu was introduced to Japan and Korea during the Tang dynasty, and its citrusy pleasures quickly squeezed their way worldwide, adding a splash of East-Asia here at home. Recipe: Food & Wine ___ Back JAPAN Next

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SPOTLIGHT / An alfresco meal in the courtyard at Konoba Kora c eva Ku c a serves the senses like a daydream. Vineyards stretch out from the gravel terrace, as clouds fluffed like tablecloths assemble overhead. A light rosé, aged in cellars from across the valley starts off this story, soon followed by fresh, local fare cooked on an outdoor wood stove, its rich smoke rising to entice the sky. Nestle into your seat because you’re going to be here for a lovely, long while. Across the courtyard, a woman lights a bundle of twigs in the outdoor brick kitchen that will soon grill your fresh fish. Back at the terrace table, overlooking the languid vineyard and soaring mountains beyond, your glass is filled with crisp Croatian white wine, poured with pride by a sinewy waiter who is excited to recite today’s specials in newly-honed English. Each course outdoes the previous. Cheeses arrive first, crowned with a snip of fresh basil. Next, a pillowy butter lettuce salad is tossed with olive oil and slices of apple and nectarine. Then, herbed gnocchi that melts into your dreams. Today’s catch of sea bass floats in, grilled to succulent perfection. Post-nirvana, a flourless almond and citrus cake comes blessed with a crescent of lavender ice cream. Now, in a form of heaven, just walk the garden, to breathe and to ponder such delights. Konoba Koraceva Kuca Korac street, 20215, Gruda, Croatia Phone: +385 20 791 557 ___ Back CROATIA Next

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CAMPARI-ROSÉ SPRITZ Bittersweet splendor in Italy. It was a chilled night in Novara, in 1860, way up in the north country when Gaspare Campari perfected the combination of herbs, fruit, alcohol and water to create a bitters so beautiful, that it, along with the nation’s flag symbolizes Italy in vivid color. A deep and wondrous red. Add to that some French Rosé and we may indeed achieve world peace. Recipe from Flamingo Estate Yield: 2 servings Ingredients 4 Kumquats or other citrus 2 oz Campari 3 oz Rosé Sparkling water to top Directions 1. Place the fruit in a rocks glass. Using a muddler or the end of a spoon, smash them until they are broken open and have released their juices. Add ice to fill the glass. Add Campari and rosé. Top off with sparkling water. Give a gentle stir to combine. * We made ours with muddled lime and lemon. To learn how to make a citrus twist, click here. TASTE Next

ALGARVE Glazed in the light of centuries past, this launching pad to the Age of Discoveries is lined with dramatic bluffs resembling fortress walls, yet far more welcoming. The warmth of the southern sunlight still illuminates dreams like those of the 16th Century explorers who set sail from these shores. Seaborne Inspiration The villages of Luz, Salema and Lago lay nestled along Albufeira coastline, as if borne of the sea. Patterns and colors of the tides decorate local homes and shops while cafes serve up its bounty as an art form. Below the craggy cliffs, the ocean swirls in turquoise, as the squinting sun reveals miles of beaches as far as the eyes can see. ___ The Ultimate Catch Rows of umbrellas mimic the arrangement of neighboring 19th century terracotta octopus traps on the beach at Salema. As vacationers nest in circles of shade, unwitting octopus slide into these amphora shaped shelters lying in wait on the sea floor. As they have since Phoenician times, Portuguese fishermen haul in the long ropes attached to these vases, along with their tentacled catch inside, soon becoming the day’s menu staple. ___ Island of Childlike Delight The island of Armona is like a child’s toy village where every structure along its single boardwalk seems to have been built at 7/8th’s scale. Originally the rustic roost of weathered fishermen, these old abodes now serve as the vacation homes of artists, musicians and other alternative raconteurs. ___ Star(fish) Trek A charming sand-swept beach bar, located at a definitive bend in the boardwalk offers a delicious reason to stop midway on one’s trek to the shore. All necessities and luxuries are delivered via this narrow path, including drinking water to the colorful array of former fishermen shacks. ___ Olhão, Yes! Back on the mainland, along this southern shore where Portugal bends to meet up with Spain, one discovers the cultural and culinary delights of Olhão and Tavira. These seaside towns are dotted with artisan shops and cafes so quaint one wishes they could be packed into our suitcases as well as our memories. ___ Portuguese Pavement Portugal is the one destination where visitors are encouraged not to look up as much as down because one mustn’t miss the intricate mosaic detail in the tiled streets, sidewalks and plazas. Calcada Portuguesa or “Portuguese Pavement” is the country’s signature design element. A treasured artisan trade that originated in Lisbon, and soon paved its way into every town, including Olhão where a father and son scurry home across one of many calcada showcases. ___ Southern Comfort The Rio Guadiana divides Portugal from Spain here on Europe’s southern shore like a slow-moving sword blade through sand. Both sides look similarly bleak, like a Wim Wenders landscape, however, some unexpectedly dreamy, beachy pockets lay just past the warehouses on Avenida Ville La Baule. The fresh fish and perfect fries at Dom Petisco on the river’s edge is, in itself, worth the drive to this end of Portugal. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next

SVETI STEFAN Islet in the Sun. Curled up on the shore like a curvaceous starlet, this arc of red and white sand is a sumptuous and cinematic dream come true. 15th Century Serenity The sand along this curve of the Montenegro coastline is a crunchy confetti in red, black and grey, ground to perfection through the ages by the Adriatic Sea. Sheltered in the calm beneath Sveti Stefan islet, the multicolored beach forms an irresistible bed for sunbathers. In the center of this idyll, a stone viaduct reaches out from the shore, providing passage to the tiny island that was once a fishing village, reincarnated today as an impeccable AMAN Hotel . ___ Photo by Aman Group Back MONTENEGRO Next

1 Ponto Final Tablecloths and plates the color of the sun are set on a high dock at the edge of the River Tejo, with a winning view so stunning that one must linger past sunset to witness Lisbon aglow after dark. PONTO FINAL RESTAURANTE 2 Museum of Art, Architecture & Technology An amazing riverfront complex of old and new architecture, including a repurposed 1800's power station and a sweeping exhibition space that looks as if it may take flight. MAAT 3 The Church Without a Roof Once Lisbon's largest cathedral, (until the earthquake of 1775), the ruins of Carmo Convent stand in testament to the strength of gothic design, with its vaulted arches still rising to the heavens. MUSEU ARQUEOLÓGICO DO CARMO 4 The Lisboans Hotel Scandinavian design meets Portuguese charm. Sun-filled guest rooms invite views of terra-cotta rooftops as the morning arrives with house pastries, coffee and juice at your door. THE LISBOANS 5 Pastéis de Nata Portugal's national pastry, Pastéis de Nata hails from the historic Belém district, where monks first cooked up the beloved confection in a monastery nearby. But this namesake bakery is its true home. PASTÉIS DE BELÉM Back LISBON Next

OMIS A treasure tucked into coastal cliffs, this shelter from the Adriatic draws one in as if by song, to study the striations carved by the ages into the rising reaches of limestone. History by the Sea Before the Cetina river reaches the ocean, it greets this tiny seaside village, 25 kilometers south of Croatia’s second-largest city, Split. Stone walkways are tucked into the folds of rugged seaside cliffs like bookmarks, each making its way up toward gaggles of modest homes and well tended gardens. Views of the river and the glow of the sea come into view the higher one climbs. ___ Rent-A-View Colorful tour boats sit like swans along the shore of the Cetina river where it widens to meet the sea. Handsome boatmen escort visitors upstream to behold its soaring stone cliffs. ___ Back CROATIA Next

PORTO Youthful spirit meets an ancient past in this picturesque Portuguese city. Romanced by the Douro river’s embrace, Porto is a melange of modern living and Medieval beauty. FIVE FAVES / PORTO City of Bridges A most appropriate moniker, as visitors will quickly discover, the two sides of Porto are laced together with bridges. One bridge is seemingly from the future, and right next to it, a Victorian era crossing leaps and swoons over the water. Designed as clifftop crossings, they ironically draw just as many passerby down into their shadows at the river’s edge. The most famous is the Dom Luis I bridge, a steel lacing that forms the backdrop of Porto. ___ Architectural Expressionism Arches, swirls, flower-petal patterns, all part of the whimsy elegance of Porto’s many architectural styles. So many floral and geometric motifs on incomprehensibly expansive tile mosaics and friezes, but no heroes are depicted. Why? Because the Moors held true to Islamic law and avoided portraying false icons. But there is no shortage of expressive forms in the wide variety of architectural vision that is Porto. ___ Perfect Perch The Portuguese have yet to meet a rooftop they don’t like. A table with a view is a Porto pleasure, even as a cat performs a high wire act along the edge. With a flying leap, he darts between the stylish boots of our waitress as she’s refilling our glasses while translating the menu. Afterwards there’s Parque dos Clerigos to stretch out in under the stars, listen to music and maybe think about tomorrow. Plans that may include visiting the Livraria Lello bookstore , (inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts) directly across from the park. (But only if there’s no line, which is quite unlikely). ___ Sunset Extraordinaire The view from the high ground of Jardim de Morro at sundown is an image that never leaves one’s heart. The park is terraced with curving concrete benches formed to the contour of the hillside, hosting the wise few who leave the bustle of the old town to cross the Rua General Torres bridge for this sublime vista. Maybe taking a slight detour to pick up some wine and cheese to enhance the moment at Dourum Restaurante just below the bridge on the quiet south waterfront. ___ Cliffside Thrill Ride Not for the faint of heart, (but worth it for the thrill –and the view) descending the cliff aboard the Funicular dos Guindais cable car is a Porto must. After strolling the high bridges across the river, it's the fastest and most fun way to reach the riverfront promenade. ___ Back PORTUGAL Next