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KAUAI
The world’s most remote location from any mainland is also the place on earth that receives the most rainfall, (roughly 450 inches per year). But by any measure, the “Garden Isle” is truly the height of exotic, tropical beauty.
45 miles of the state’s finest hiking trails wind their way through wet forests and dry ledges, leading to sweeping views of Waimea Canyon and the Napali coast. Cliff sides stand like flanks of bayonets, daring the clouds to advance, eventually forcing a surrender of 70 inches of rainfall annually. Kokee road meanwhile weaves up from the west, arriving within a few easy steps of the most incredible view of them all, the Kalalau Lookout.
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A misty canyon cradles a self-sustaining, social-ecological practice known to Hawaiians as “Ahupua”. An ancient tradition where land is divided into “pie slice” parcels, starting at the rain-drenched top point of the island, assuring fresh water flows through terraced farms below as each valley widens towards the sea. “The plants, the people and the place” are equal and essential contributors to its well being. This gorgeous garden also nurtures countless endangered native plants and birds. Visitors are welcome. Reservations are advised.
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The day pulls away like a ship. All of us who remain ashore look forward to its colorful return tomorrow. Just moments ago, the departing sun briefly glazed this beach in gold, as if leaving a parting gift. A treasure that quickly vanished into the Hawaiian twilight.
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It may be called a pier but it’s more like a rough hewn temple, or for some a diving board. Reaching out from the shore, this simple walkway leads to the most magnificent view of paradise, where the clouds applaud a brilliant performance as the sun takes a bow.
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The sea rolls in, lead by a frothy flank of whitecaps advancing into Hanalei Bay, just as a cappuccino rolls in from room service, sporting its own frothy cap. Such are the synergies of the “Garden Isle”, Kauai, at the dreamy 1 Hotel.
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In this portal to old Hawaii, vintage aloha shirts, mid-mod light fixtures, tiki mugs and Hawaiiana treasures fill the shelves. Opened in 1993 after Hurricane Iniki ransacked the island, this little shop helped restore Kauai with some soulful charm.
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Life along the Hanalei river is Nature’s denizen within reach. Sun bathing turtles mostly ignore the paddling paparazzi, just as resident birds prioritize breakfast over privacy. Tree branches stretch in yoga poses while a breeze whistles Hawaiian tunes through the leaves.
Kayak Hanalei
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Hawaiian Tiki
As a guardian of the heiau, (temple) a tiki warrior represents the manifestation of Mana, the ancient Hawaiian belief that spiritual energy flows through all beings and things, balancing power and strength with serenity and dignity.
Hand carved Acacia Koa wood tikis by Havaiki Oceanic and Tribal Art Gallery, Hanalei Center
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Papayas, mangosteens, guavas, passion fruit (AKA lilikoi), coconuts and apple-bananas. Are we in Eden? Even better, it’s the ever-tempting farmers’ markets on Kauai, where local growers gather under neatly arranged tents to sell their home grown wonders. Our bags runneth over at this heavenly outdoor market just past Waioli Huiia church in Hanalei.
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Shave Ice at Kilauea Fish Market
Japanese immigrants, who came to the Islands to work in the sugar and pineapple fields in the mid-1800s introduced the concept of kakigori. Meaning shaved ice. They used their tools to shave flakes off large blocks of ice, and then coated it with sugar or fruit juice. In Pidgin vernacular, the refreshing treat became known as shave ice—not shaved ice. (On Hawaii Island, it’s also called “ice shave”.)
Eventually, the ice flakes were fashioned with hand-cranked machines; some stores still operate them today. Shave ice is softly mounded in a cup, or sometimes a cone, and generously drizzled with colorful syrups. Some natural, some not. On Kauai, one can enjoy all-natural fruit syrups at The Fresh Shave in Koloa. The delightful specimen shown here features papaya and lilikoi drizzle + a gummy worm, as served at Kilauea Fish Market, who have clearly mastered more than the art of preparing fabulous fish!
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Shifting palm shadows brush the window like hands fussing with a long sheer curtain. An antique poster bed and a well-loved Hawaiian quilt suggest the presence of a grandmother, but this is a gentleman’s bedroom. One of two men who lived here, in this island home, together, amid a tropical garden carved out of a sugarcane valley, between the wars, a world away from judgement. Their guests, actors, artists and heiresses arrived from the mainland by ocean liner. The era of modern air travel was still awaiting take off.
About the same time that Georgia O’Keefe immersed herself in New Mexico at Ghost Ranch, fully removed from the modern frenzy of Manhattan, Robert and John Gregg Allerton found themselves at home on the island of Kauai. Their hands deep in Hawaiian soil and their toes in the sand. They wore kimonos at cocktail hour and promenaded like peacocks in gardens of their own design. One of which is a formal, four-cornered “room”,—with no ceiling. Instead, a mural of real sky and clouds overhead. At night it became a ballroom, lit by the stars.
Outsmarting the rules of a frowning society, they legalized their relationship with the older Robert adopting John as his son, keeping the dream in the family for half a life longer. Upon John’s passing in 1986, this 80 acre botanical fantasy was left in trust for all to enjoy, now managed by the non-profit National Tropical Botanical Garden.
Guided tours by reservation.
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Part wooden bridge, part childhood swing, this creaking span outs one’s inner child. Perhaps this is what walking on a cloud feels like—but with less grace. Its cartoon sway animated further by the bravado of a young brat midway across. The return is easier, having acclimated to instability. Back on land, and walking straight again, follow the turn-of-the-century storefronts to Talk Story Bookstore “the westernmost bookstore in the US”.
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Not far from the entrance to Waimea Canyon, the sun swept west shore of Kauai feels strangely warm and blustery, having come ‘round the island from the rain-slicked east shore. A place to sink one’s toes in the earth tone sand, or glide across the wide lawn, each blade of grass lazily waving aloha to the setting sun. Pass beneath the reach of banyan tree limbs as they strike a pose like mimes.
Here, 59 authentic plantation cottages, once home to field workers in the late 1800s, nestle comfortably on 43-acres of tropical oceanfront. Thoughtfully refurbished, these one-to-five-bedroom cottages welcome their guests with comfortable Hawaii-style furniture, fully equipped kitchens and private lanais at surprisingly affordable rates. Like fingerprints from the past, no two cottages are the same, except in charm.
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Lighthouses keep ships from running aground, but this one kept an airplane from being lost at sea. In 1927, five weeks after Lindbergh’s transatlantic triumph, two Army pilots dared a more difficult navigational feat, the first transpacific flight from California to Hawaii. Aloft for a full day and night, the three-engine “Bird of Paradise” approached the islands before dawn. Shockingly, their compass and directional radio receiver both malfunctioned, leaving the pilots to search the darkened void. Just then, a flash from the Kilauea Lighthouse allowed them to recalibrate their position and land safely on Oahu, 25 hours and 50 mins after taking off from Oakland. Today the lighthouse continues to protect actual “birds of paradise” as a stunning National wildlife refuge.
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As we wind down on our time here on the Garden Isle, we ponder its beauty and power, its fragile environment and ferocious sea. The veil of its natural allure often masks potential peril. While Lumahai Beach is the subject of many postcards and paintings, it is also one of the most dangerous beaches for drownings and not recommended for swimming. Admire and respect its stunning wonder but stay clear of the surf.
Now we brush off the sand one last time before heading to the airport. But first, one last look, imagining Mitzi Gaynor singing “I’m gonna wash that man right out of my hair” in the 1958 movie “South Pacific”, filmed right here on Lumahai Beach.
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INSPIRATION: A touch of the islands for your world at home.
Tiki Collectables
A warrior’s glare looms, his face paint swirling like typhoons. Meet the defender of tropical kitsch and his clan, here to protect-and-serve tiki drinks. Ah, the allure of swarthy and sweet concoctions –in tiki mugs. The fruits of rum-soaked islands, oceans away. But this languid lore is not limited to imbibing. Tiki mugs also make fun vases and/or colorful, sculptural mantle art. Display the whole unruly tribe as a bookshelf collection! Check out the best in rum-punchy porcelain at tikifarm.com. Imagine an eclectic cache of tikis in one’s own humble hale. The spirit(s) of the south seas, right at home.
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