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DOURO RIVER
The beauty and effervescence of wine country runs deep in the Douro River Valley. The river flows gently, like vino verde into your glass, sparkling at the foot of steep stepped hillsides that climb like vines towards the sky.
Uncorking Portugal’s Wine Country
Arrive by train, or boat, or car, but no matter your desired conveyance, the river will guide you. It is central to the magic of this region. We like the vintage steam train with its billowing cumulus floating briefly over the river, as we chug along its bends and curves. Rows of grape vines flash by, blending into the ripples on the water. Bathers, tucked in to tranquil river eddies wave as we roll by with a whistle heralding our arrival.
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An Artisanal Landscape
Casa dos Viscondes is splayed out across the landscape like a welcoming picnic blanket, complete with the basket of delights. A long driveway leads through the gates and builds with excitement as we wind our way past the vineyards to the main house. Glorious views open onto the hills as cloud shadows make their way like watercolor animation.
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Reasons to Howl
Here the day goes by with little notice of the time. Especially for the master of the Casa, holding court on the front steps, who assumes guests will make the hurdle over his reddish haunches. In the nearby town of Peso da Régua, shop walls are lined with wine bottled bookshelves like studious libraries.
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Days of Heaven
Like in a daydream, our hotel lay nestled in the folds of steep hillside vineyards along the Douro River, just a few beautiful hours upstream from Porto via train or boat. Once settled in, a long turquoise pool awaits, framed by a summer lawn as warm and soft as a fresh towel. The day is topped off with the crisp delight of local vino verde. The hot sun will soon cool behind the trees as dinner is readied up at the main house. Its stone terrace setting the stage for moonlit retellings of the days’ adventures.
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